Originally Posted by MadMatt
Originally Posted by AndyF
I've run the Sniper on a dual plane intake. It works just fine on a dual plane but it might work better with a small open spacer. There isn't a big difference between fuel/air flow with a throttle body and a carb. In both cases you have a mixture of air and fuel flowing out of the base and into the manifold. So whatever works with a carb tends to work with a throttle body.

As far as your other point on EFI performance you are correct, EFI will work much better in terms of automatically adjusting the air fuel mixture for different altitudes and weather conditions. Throttle body EFI will not make more power than a good carb but it should provide better driveability, especially if you add a Hyperspark distributor and use the full computer controlled timing feature.

The data logger is a huge advantage which most people never even talk about. Once you learn how to use the data logger you'll be able to solve all sorts of issues that have nothing to do with the EFI system. A super Sniper with the extra inputs can be used as a simple general purpose data logger. I use mine to monitor oil pressure, fuel pressure and crank case pressure. You can also monitor pressure in the cooling system or brake pressure or line pressure in an automatic transmission.


I'm excited at the idea of having the computer control the timing. I know that with a computer you can run curves that would never be possible with "physical" advance. Can you offer any sort of insight into what sort of curves you have used or how you go about selecting a curve? If I remember correctly, I am currently running 34 degrees total advance with it all in by 2400 rpm. My Dart is light (about 3100 lbs) and with the 3:55 gears and the 2.87 first gear in the TKO knock is pretty much a non-issue with premium gas.


It really depends on the cam. The bigger the cam then the more timing you put into the engine at idle. The nice thing about a Sniper setup is that you can change the ignition curve with just a few keystrokes. You don't have to take a distributor apart and play with weights or springs. If 34 total is working for you then just try some different numbers for idle and then smooth out the slope between those points. I'd suggest something around 40 to 45 degrees of timing for cruising down the freeway.

You can test all of this in the car by hooking up the laptop and going for a drive. Drive down the freeway at cruise and have someone change the timing numbers as you drive and see how the engine feels. Typically you can dial in the cruise timing in just a few miles of driving. Then find a long hill to drive up and make sure that it doesn't ping or knock and you should be good to go.