I believe that our own ThumperDart can put you together a carb that would rival the retro-fit throttle body systems in driveability and for a lot less money and hassle.
For that matter, if your cam is mild and idle not too lumpy, the new Street Demons that look similar to the old Thermoquads are very good carbs right out of the box for mild engines. And for $300 or so, are a real bargain to boot. Lots of Youtube videos on them.
I didn't put this in my original post but I drive the car spring/summer/fall here in Idaho, so temperatures from about 45 degrees to 100 degrees, and I drive in elevations ranging from 800-5200 feet above sea level. No disrespect intended, but do you honestly think any carb can handle those conditions as well as an EFI system with it's multitude of sensors?
A Sniper system will work a lot better than a carb once the Sniper is properly dialed in. It does take some computer skill to dial a Sniper in so you need to think about that. Ideally you need a Windows laptop to really understand and work with a Sniper. You'll also need the matching Hyperspark distributor to control the ignition timing. The Sniper has a built in data logging system that keeps track of what the engine is doing. A data logger is a great tool to have once you get used to it and learn how to use it.
Thanks for both your replies. I am planning to get the Hyperspark distributor to go with it, and fortunately I have a Window's laptop. I have basic computer skills, but luckily my son is a computer science major and loves cars, so I should be good to go there. I was thinking about going with the basic system because it has the built in regulator and saves a few bucks. I do have an adjustable Aeromotive regulator already installed and was thinking I could clean up the engine compartment a bit by using the built-in. I'm not too concerned on the linkage as I've changed it half a dozen times as I've gone from AVS to Holley to Demon and from AT to the TKO-600. Do you feel strongly that there are other advantages to the 4150-type unit?
Also, do you know if the stock Mopar alternator will supply sufficient amps? I think my unit is rated at 55-60 amps, and all my lights are LED except the headlights and front turn signals. I have a 35 watt stereo, heater and OEM A/C with a Sanden compressor. I'm currently running the MP labeled MSD 6A box with the MP replacement distributor that was made by Mallory.
