I highly recommend the Hyperspark distributor. Using it will free you up from the constraints of the mechanical advance curve. You can have the engine idle at 25 degrees of timing with a short ramp to 35 at WOT and then add another 10 for freeway cruising if that is what you want. Only takes a couple of key strokes to set up rather than spending a day on the distributor machine.
You can either use the plastic cap trick for install or just crank the engine over to 30 degrees BTDC and then install the distributor with the rotor pointed towards #1 tower. That should get you close enough to fire the engine but you'll need to immediately put a timing light on it. You can set the static timing with the handheld to check with the timing light. Just freeze the timing at 20 or 30 degrees (wherever you have a good mark on the damper) and then check with the timing light. Once you have the actual timing matching what the Sniper says then you can unfreeze the timing and go hammer on it.
Thanks Andy as we do plan yo go a head and install that dist and let the Sniper control the timing real soon. I tell ya as a dealer tech most of my life I did most of the electronic work at my dealer and did data recordings all the time on the newer Mopars. But we could not change and modify anything on them as I just took recordings to figure out and fix the problems. The only changes came from Mopar as PCM flashes or we replaced the PCM. I am learning that so much can be changed and modified on this setup and my son is getting real good with it. Thanks for your help as he got the recordings from the track the other day downloaded and we looked at them on my computer. He said tell you thanks as we got it figured out after what you told us. But you sure can do a lot more with this then I was used to working at the dealer. Any PCM flash had to be emission certified before Mopar let us flash any. I could not believe how much you can change and modify on this setup. Ron
