My Valiant had a 389, ported J head 296/557MP cam, 4.30 gears, and a TA 5000 stall. It was a good little 10.90-11.10 (10.89-121.6 best) bracket car with my fat butt in it. Went a 10.73-123 with my skinny buddy driving.

I converted it to a street car, added a passenger seat, extra fans, switched to 3.89 gears, and the 4500 stall. I now had a nice 11.30-11.40 (11.27-117.2 best) street car! No changes to the engine at all.

I think RMCHRGR's Duster will run 11.35 at 118 or so, and he'll have to work from there, and I say so without impugning his dyno sheet in any way.

My point: It's real easy to take an engine off of a 40,000 dollar dyno, strap it into a 15,000 dollar car and figure out how to go slower than the dyno numbers showed it had potential to run.

I never had a dyno sheet on my 440 in my Challenger, but in the 6 years and 759 passes that I put on it, at tracks all over the west, it ran from 9.96-134 to 10.47-125, and the initial dyno numbers would still be the same regardless of which pass you compared it to.

This is what I get touchy (fair or not) about. If you feel a speed/weight/HP slide rule or online calculator gives you a fair amount of information to discredit a dyno, an engine builder, or a dyno data sheet, you are doing the equivalent of someone using a crescent wrench as a hammer.

(This is the place where I would normally couch this statement with some qualifiers, and try to soften the tone, but I think I'll just let you kick me around for a while...)

Fast,
920 to 772, normal drop from crank to wheels? Not rhetorical, I'm not sure if you feel that is acceptable or not.


"Livin' in a powder keg and givin' off sparks" 4 Street cars, 5 Race engines