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I called Inline tube,,they wont take the lines back,,said it's their policy,,therefore the question. Also last but not least,,can you or anyone suggest a stainless steel brake line flaring tool? The Napa tool is just not rigid enough, and most I seen on Amazon or other brake tool suppliers are the same flimsy tool and is not for stainless. I don't mind spending good money for proper high quality tooling.




You can get 3/16 female/female junctions to connect the lines. Or you could go ahead and plumb in the Wilwood adjustable and leave it wide open until you can test for brake balance.

Stainless steel lines are tough to double flair. Speedway has a tool they "say" will do stainless, but I'll believe it when I see it.

I bought a really nice Mastercool flaring tool and ruined the 3/16 die doing double flairs on SS even after annealing the ends before flaring. I switched to the 90/10 copper/nickel brake line and never looked back. It double flairs like butter and the nickel finish is nice.

Thanks Lefty,,I'll do just that. Yeah, Stainless is a tough metal to work with,,I really hate to waste the new lines,,guess I'll sell em and switch over to either OEM or CN 90/10, the only flaring tool I like is the Eastwood flaring tool that has a rigid set-up but man,,250 bucks! I'll get some male/female fittings, but 1 thing I just thought of Lefty,,if I don't use the Prop. Valve,,how would I activate the brake light warning switch/idiot light? Just Omit it? I have no problem with daily maintenance/brake system check,,leaks,,soft spongy pedal ect Thanks again for your time/advice Eddie