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Quote: Ok so for an update, i stripped the entire motor down and noticed that there was a chunk taken out of one of the cam lobes.


I had a 360 stroker that had same bearing issues due to 3 worn-out camlobes had sent the trash through the mains, chewed them up badly first. Rodbearings looked better.

Had to regrind the crank etc. after a full tear down. Same has happened with other engines that ruined camlobes. Just to let you know. Hope it works out for you!



So you think i'll be alright with just turning the crank down and installing new bearings? (i'm also gonna hone, and put new rings in)

And what did you do to fix this, just install a higher quality cam? Mine looks like the original.



I do not know how to check the material quality of the cam and lifters. It is a gamble when using stock type parts. I used another block, bored it and put in the old pistons, after removing all iron particles stuck in the skirts. Then new rings. And, using a high Zn / Ph oil and the comp cams additive as well.
The old 360 block can be reused (have it for another project) after honing, it cleared out quite well with only .001" removed. Only a few tiny stripes left.
I changed the block because of a low oil pressure issue, and suspected the lifterholes to be too slack. They were no worse than the other, but I did not take chances. The hivolume oilpump was destroyed by all the debris going through.
The engine was run for some time with the damaged lobes, and I think this extended running with the debris destroyed the engine. Camwear did not stop on the broken lobes, and finally the engine started misfiring on the cylinders with low lift. Then it was all detected when I got the vehicle in for service/troubleshooting.

I hate this situation with the cams, lifters and oil. In the past I never take chances with the oil, and use the sloppiest valvesprings possible for the cam and max rpm for these street engines.
You could use lifters with lube holes, and nitrided cams (I thought they all were nitrided, but obviuosly not good enough, so extra cash is needed to avoid being cheated) and you end up with something approaching a roller in cost. Still this could be better than a roller failure in a high mile/useage street engine.

I also had an engine with a 590 cam broken in at the dyno, checked/adjusted valves, OK, and after the dyno session one lobe and lifter was gone. I guess the oil used was not good enough, and the quality of the parts is questionable.
I am so afraid of this stuff that I rather buy a slightly used cam with lifters in sorted order, to be sure it has survived the first runs. I build engines for a living, and the profit gets negative when such things happen.

Good Luck!!!