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On my Dart I used a Napa alternator, it's a mopar "78 amp" unit from a Volare I think, here is a pic showing the part # and the RPM/output relationship. The RPMs there are alternator rpms. I don't recall the ratios, but I think once the engine reaches about 1700-1800 RPM (if memory serves), the alternator is spinning enough to churn out all 79 amps.

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Cool chart. Too bad we don't have alternator output charts with engine rpms versus output for all the original Mopar, rebuilt Powermaster, Denso and CS140 alternators. All but the CS140 are notoriously weak at and just above engine idle rpm.

Mopar pulley with that alt is around 1.9 faster so you have now the conversion for it... around double

The CS140 altenator I ended up bolting right into my 1970 puts out up to 115 amps at low idle and potentially up to 200 amps above a fast idle with a nominal voltage of 14.4 volts. None of the other popular conversions mentioned even close to half this amount of idle output. Period!

is true... CS alts are more powerfull, specially at low RPMs, thats is because they are Delta winding kind stator, beside also wider, as I stated

Why did I install so much power? I added several power hungry electrical add-ons and needed the increased idle output, A/C, electric fuel pump, twin fans, power windows, headlight upgrades, line lock and MSD ignition. It's all fed from the engine compartment power distribution lugs, amp gauge is bypassed and the bulkhead modified. With everything on, it still has 14.4 volts at idle. Sweet!

if you hook correctly everything on alt side, no need for bypass ammeter HOWEVER on a highly equiped car would it be dangerous if alt gets damaged, so then the batt will feed everything through ammeter... assuming, once again everything is correctly hoooked on alt side. BUT need to note on a broken alt incident, ANYWAY it is recomended, ammeter or not, cut all the non needed equippment until get it fixed, so we could be on a similar deal with or without ammeter. Of course an electric fan setup can't be cut.

not saying one thing is better than the other or more true than the other one, just saying if you understand the system and you know how to handle, You can keep the original system on a quite stockish car... at the end is your choice!!! just learn and decide, and match your setup accordingly whith your REAL needs.

Power windows, line locks are something you don't need to consider since they are not constant power succkers, just at one moment. MSD doesn't sucks power like a whale sucks plantok either. Just ELECTRIC FANS, A/C ( just because the blower, so heater too ) and halogen/HID headlamps are the "constant" power suckers. Big powerplant stereos too. Rest is something you can forgett.
You can choose also change to a SHUNTED system, if wish an ammeter.
Will be great to get at least 60-80 amps ammeters though, like police cars got before the shunted kind ammeters
Just check all the topics I linked on the link I posted. Some of them links out to this same board. Very nice discussions

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