LOL


ok, I will tell my car I have been wrong in last 6 years and my ammeter is wrong too, when I have kept it and barelly sense some power going throught because I balanced the charging system with a 78 amps alt, hooking every relay to the ammeter stud itself on alt side ( I have 6 relays attached to the ammeter, however max will be working will be 3 at the same time ), and will go with a 100 amps tuff stuff alt still keeping my ammeter to kill it faster

LOL

Come on! trust in somebody what already did it and is using it on a DAILY DRIVER... My ammeter NEVER gets heat. You can touch the studs on back and not even gets warm ( and I use A/C every day )

you can use a BIG BATT, as far you KNOW how to drive it

Not saying small batt is right or wrong, but saying you ned a bigger alternator than batt. You need to increase both sides proportionally, but if you upgrade just one side, better do it on a bigger alt first

A bigger alt doesn't mean 100 or more amps output. It means better quality at iddle as posible, but is logical a 100 amps alt will get you better juice at iddle. If you can get a 80 amps alt ( or even 60 amps but that's ask too much ) able to feed 45/55 amps at iddle if car demands for it you will be able to never use the batt to feed the car ( just cranking ), and ammeter WON'T MOVE EVER ( or barelly ) what will mean, power is not going through, so never will get heat.

The right selection of the alt is VERY IMPORTANT. has been prooved Delta kind windings are better charge quality that Y windings alt. I don't have the real numbers but is true that a 80 Delta kind alt will get you better power at iddle than a 100 amps Y winding kind. Just that I love stockish look and there is not exist a Delta kind alt on stock housing, If it was the chance to get an internal upgrade on stator coil to Delta windings, I would change just the stator on my alt.


BUT allways will need to work on the weakness of the bulkhead, and thats allways true. No need to get rid off the original terminals and wires, but just get parallel system to handle the extra load safer.

MaMopar did it on bigger than 60 amps cars. They never went through bulkhead, but through firewall.

However...

Still keeping bulkhead terminals FIX THE IDDLE CHARGE OUTPUT and you will be allmost done, EVEN BULKHEAD terminals on your stock system WILL LAST LONG! IT IS NOTICEABLE.

PEAKS FOR LONG TIME due the low alt capacity at iddle is what killed our systems.

KEEP SAFE THE AMMETER STUDS HEALTH... tight and clean.

try it! Trust me. Don't be irracional, Don't be a robot what makes whatever it reads because everybody says that without an analisys of whay it does happens, just an automatical procedure.

Of course bypass the ammeter and run a wire directly to Starter relay will get everything better too, BUT I got an ammeter on my car from factory and I love to kept working. Is part of a resto job doesn't ? keep everything working like factory did. I don't want an ornament on my cluster. If I can keep it like came from factory, and safe will keep it working!!!

Nothing like show to the ppl the stock system works like a champ.

Beside that I trust more on an ammeter than a voltimeter. On an alt fail I got around 7 years ago, got 18 volts but discharge... Rotor was shorting. If I was trust on voltimeter, I was though I was overcharging and kept driving... untill my battery death due no more juice to get from it