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Such negativity. The OP spend $30 which led to a huge improvement to his car. He can now move forward from this point ( with all the great info found here on Moparts) to replace springs and/or shocks as he deems necessary.


how do you know there was a huge improvement? I think they could help him at his level but he didn't give us before and after numbers? no negativity I amm all for it if it helped him no matter if it wouldn't work for everybody


Heres a vid of my car the last time i ran before the slapper bars.Notice how it comes off the line and jerks to the right .No lift on the rear of the body and this was with the springs clamped in three spots on the front segments.It still wrapped the springs bad ,so bad that the shocks had dents in them from rolling into the rearend housing.My 60 foots ranged anywhere from 1.65 most of the time to 1.71.Best 60 at that point was 1.638 once on a well prepped track.Now my 60's are 1.60 or 1.61 everytime and it lifts the front and back of of the car evenly with no spring wrap ,and pops the wheels off the pavement.My point is that noone said before that slapper bars work in sum applications on Mopars.I always heard a blanket statement that "They just dont work on Mopars".All im trying to say is that they do work if setup right ...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BIIyWUefEYQ




in that video it looked like the car went where it was aimed and then you corrected it. it didn't jerk right it just drove where it was headed. there are way to many varibles that can effect traction. so only a back to back same day same conditions could prove it helps one way or the other. you will hear some people say snubbers don't work also, and yes they are both band aids to weak or bad springs. but they can help prevent spring wrap if adjusted right just like your slappers. but add another 100hp then come back and tell us if they will work.