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I just dont think the cam is way off in left field for the engine..I wished it was about 5 deg smaller on both the intake and exh side as for as duration goes...I like the 112 LSA etc.

The cam is 290°@.050 on the intake and 300°@.050 on the exh looks like overlap is about 71 deg or so. I degree'd the cam in at 109.5-110 LSA which worked out to be exactly what the cams valve events written on the cam card. I liked the fact that the lift at the valve retainer was .775 for the intake and .755 for the exh.

I would love to know how much they can move this cam on a regrind. They probably couldnt tell me unless it was sent in and they knew things like hardness depth etc. Id say .010-.015 would be max they could move whats there including the base circle. Anyone know for sure or have any cam experience?
Looking at Comps Master Cam lobe library..I still would be looking at numbers in the mid 280's on the intake and low to mid 290's on the exh, with about the same LSA give or take a degree or so.

probably a DR or XR intake Lobe and a XCX or JX exh lobe.

Yep
Its a money thing now, buying parts twice is what has hurt me...Changing directions during the build, and not doing my home work has cost me time and money.
Things like Cam, lifters, valve springs,retainers, spring cups, cams, intakes, and even valve covers. But one way or another, the engine will be finished and running well. Even if things are optimal for my combo..They can be changed, I never cared to work on my stuff. I have even been known to take apart good engines for no apparent reason..just too have a look. So labor around here doesnt cost about $0.25 per/hour.



Bob, I hear ya about money concerns. That being said, I'd really consider a new cam if I were you. It seems really strange that you'd use the wrong cam and go to a lot of trouble(and some $$) in a $20,000+ engine to save $300??

I wish you the best in whatever you decide to do. Love the car and look forward to seeing it make laps some day