Determining the pedal stop's travel limit is done in combination with setting the full clutch release free play. You can adjust it so that your feeler gauge will just fit in between the pressure plate, clutch disc and flywheel when the clutch pedal is all the way on the floor. I used to start with the feeler gauge not being able to fit between the clutch disc etc when pushed all the way to the floor , and then increase the adjustment using the clutch rod until I got the desired release clearance. That way I would have the correct clearance when the pedal is fully depressed when fully on the floor.

In a lot of cases, this will mean that the clutch pedal will not come up enough for the over center spring to lift the pedal past the over center point of the spring's top-of-travel resting position. I used to have to use my toe to bring the clutch pedal the rest of the way up. This is another reason why some people remove the over center spring.

Spend the time to make sure all the connecting points in the linkage are square to each other where they connect. I have always had to straighten out linkage parts when assembling the Z-bar components.

Another trick I learned while trying to set-up my clutch release mechanism is to lubricate all the parts that contact each other with synthetic disc brake grease. It outlasts and outperforms any other lubricant that I have found and won't attack rubber or plastic.

As my old autoshop teacher used to say, the only time clutch parts wear when set-up correctly is when they are being used, so keep your foot off the pedal, hand off the shifter(to reduce wear on the shift forks and synchros) and use the clutch's "slip" as minimally as possible to reduce wear and keep the heat down in it.

I cringe when I see how much some people unnecessarily over slip and ride the clutch when they drive a manual transmission car, and learn how to heal-toe the brake and gas pedal to start moving on a hill start if you don't know how to do it yet..