I ran an HEV in a small block years ago.
1st cam wiped out in 200 miles. Although I insisted we used the correct pressure springs, they told me the reason it wiped a lobe was because I hadn't purchased the springs from them.
After I dug all of the metal out of the pistons, I built another motor and had a 2nd cam wipe out in about 1500 miles. Although I had used their cam, lifter, and spring combo... they told me my block had poor lifter bore geometry, and would not cover any costs of the repair.
Then I bought new pistons, new bearings, rings, etc...bored the motor .010" over, BUSHED the lifter bores as instructed, and broke the motor in on the dyno with the outer springs only as instructed. It wiped out ANOTHER cam of the same HEV profile.
I'll let you decide if you want to buy or use anything from them...but I put a roller in it, and never looked back.
You don't need a killer attack roller lifter profile. Every production car on the planet has a roller cam in it...so the durability is fine if you use the right parts.
Just to be curious how much spring pressure did they recommend? I lost one of their camshafts several years ago, using their lifters and springs. When I saw the specs, I called and told them there is no way this cam will live at those pressures. They talked me into it, and to make a long story short it did not live, I sent them cam and lifters back for inspection, and they said that my break-in pattern looked fine on the lobes that did not go flat. basically shrugged their shoulders and said Oh well. Did not even offer to replace the camshaft. I went with a roller and never looked back. I personally never use a flat tappet cam that calls for more than 130 lbs on the seat, I have pushed that with EDM lifters, but if it's over 130 lbs on the seat, and much over .650 lift, I just buy a roller.
