I'd rather keep the amp gauge functional, to watch how the battery is doing. I understand that if I simply add a wire from the alt stud, with a suitable FL, to the stater relay batt stud, this will reduce load on wires passing through the bulkhead connectors, but will make the amp gauge inaccurate. If I run the "parallel" setup, per Nacho, since ALL leads are going to/from the amp gauge, the amp gauge should still render accurately, correct??
Correct. I don't have a truck service manual, but the '73 Dodge cars FSM shows two versions of that type of bulkhead bypass that retains the ammeter function.
See if there was a optional wiring arrangement for the trucks, or take some ideas from the Dart or Charger/Coronet versions.
I also get it about the advice to NOT run any accessories or other powered items (think headlights run on a relay setup), except for maybe a winch, from the battery side, but to instead run them from the alt side. Where would i actually run wire off of to accomplish this, then? Right off the alt stud? I'm already running Crackedback's headlight relay system off the stud; there's not a lot more room if I end up doing a relay for the blower motor, and any other lights or accessories I might want. Should I run a wire off the alt stud to a power distribution block, and then power my headlight relays, blower motor relays, and other accessories off that? Do I run it off the battery stud on my starter relay, or is that considered running off the battery? Also looking at converting my cigarette lighter to a USB port, per E'berg's article in prior Mopar Action, and have picked up a USB outlet that also displays system volts.
Joe, cant help you on the cig lighter.
Winches are a special problem and I don't know the best answer (other than a PTO
). If its going to draw a lot of current under load (check the specs), it might be more than the alternator can produce, especially at slow idle. I suspect this is why power for plows and winches were often tapped in at the battery. This probably contributed to the melting of a fair number of 70s era ammeters. Alternator is sending all it can to the winch through the ammeter, and when votlage drops to 12.8 - 13, then the battery sends whatever is needed. As the electric load is reduced, the alternator can provide the recharge. And its probably a big recharge, battery could be sucking 30 amps for a few minutes through the ammeter and all the charge wires.
As far as connecting in more normal accessories to be used with engine running, a power distribution block is a good idea.
It could just be a single stud terminal strip, or an auxilery fuse/breaker box.
Running it off the starter relay stud is the same as running it off the battery - you are correct.
On the Abody version, I beleive the factory eliminated the standandard alternator output wire, but you could leave. That would be the 'Nacho' parallel feed.
On the Bbody version, they added two terminal blocks and the ammeter's original wires had to be eliminated. The reason for disconnecting them is to insure that in case of a short to ground, the battery would send current through the 16 gage fusible link. The link at the starter relay is too big to protect the smaller wires inside the cab.
