Originally Posted by Cab_Burge
Which brand seal did you use this time?
I've had several defective seals that wouldn't touch crankshaft surface at all, no sign of contact from the seal lip on the crankshaft after removing the seal holder puke rant
I ended buying the newer more expensive ones made from a softer material and they will leave a mark in the grease I use to lube the crank seal area on the cranks, no leaks so far on two that I had to fix up
The oil can leak from the side seals, the main seal or from under the cap to the block also shock To fix it properly you need to figure out exactly where it is leaking first scope work
Good luck, let us know what you find out to fix it , that will help others on here later up


I used the fel-pro viton seal kit. What concerned me originally, was how easy the old seal came out and how easy the new seal went in. The crank was still in the motor and all of the main caps were tight. I was able to grab the old seal and pull it out fairly easily without even having somebody rotate the crank. I put rtv on the back side of the seal and oil on the crankshaft side and I was able to push the new one right in by hand. It also bothers me that a brand new motor with 100 miles on it is already on its second seal and they both leak. Hopefully there isn't something defective with the motor that's not allowing it to seal up. The block is a world aluminum model. I can't find any info on it or if it requires a different seal that a stock hemi version, but I compared the original seal that came out of it with the new fel-pro one that I bought and they were the same.

1973 Cuda 528 all aluminum Hemi, 4 speed, 3.23 Sure-Grip, (JA5) Silver Frost Metallic 1973 Challenger Rallye 340 1985 W150 Power Ram prospector 1986 Camaro IROC-Z 305 tpi