looks close,yes it needs to move the whole range as the throttle moves it moves at same time,if there is any throttle movement and the TP linkage does NOT move it is misadjusted.

trim the flat bar so it is out of the wat of the throttle stud and get another bolt in it so it will not pivot.it will make it more solid...just cut the slot off the one and add another bolt should fix that up.

take some pliers and bent the clamp that hold the throttle cable upward some to help aline it.

I have mine bent al most straight up so it it looks like it clamps from the side.

you now look like its in the ballpark

remember to close up the slack in the adjustment on the bell crank to the shortest setting,then make the rod to carb the length you need,that way when you drive it you can adjust the slot on the rod end to make it longer...this will make the rpm/shift points go up stretching the gears out a little

trick is not to go to much as it will cause it to have a slow down shift when at light throttle..ect.

some fine tunneing is needed now when you test drive it

you can push it back with no binding with the carb throttle not moveing correct?

you can move the throttle and linkage moves at same time/distance with no binding correct?

I think you got it now