Turbos are the future. For what a procharger costs you can build a nice turbo system. No belts to worry about or huge mounting system.

IMO The average mopar cheapskate wouldn't put the money into one.
purple shafts and ss spring mentality is the norm
Forget about a procharger or F.I.

Why is not having more money than Sam Walton such a negative thing? Purple shafts and SS springs work and are cheap.

IMO ....

The biggest issue is like everything else Mopars are not a big market. So the brackets/kits will be more expensive or non existent requiring people to fabricate their own.

If that is what you want, build it! Don't let the people mocking "purple cams" and crap on here lead you away. Talk to the company or companies you want to purchase the procharger from they will have done a big block Mopar. Steve Morris Engines has a few on their youtube channel as well, but they might be a bit more then 10's unless your car weighs 8000lbs

Truth, and offended cheep skate 😂

Positive:
lower underhood temperature than turbo
hood clearance (unlike 6-71 etc.)
can use intercooler (unlike 6-71 etc.)
Negative:
low torque at low RPM
still need a complete header system
less power than a turbo with same boost

Why does everyone overlook Vortech? They have a stronger transmission and operate at cooler temps and give off a cooler charge. Don't get fooled by prochargers more active and aggressive advertising

You have already bought it, so this info may be a bit late. If buying a new blower, I would suggest vortec. Procharger will not sell as much as a seal to an end user. You are at their mercy when something goes wrong(and things do) during race season, if you're not sponsored by them, you wait and wait and wait.
If they sold parts you could at least repair your own stuff in a timely manner.
My friend sent in his procharger for a leak. It took 6 weeks to get it back. He makes one pass and the thing eats itself up. They forgot to tighten the impeller nut and the wheel chewed up everything. They fixed it junk yard style with a used volute, and a new wheel. Got it back 8 weeks later. Sold it after swearing to never buy another one from them.

"I am hoping to make around 700fwhp with this setup and pray that it stays together. "

I believe your hopes should answered without much ado, but your prayers might fall on deaf ears.

Second issue is tuning. I am not a fan of blow thru carburetor setups. You tend to have to run too fat with little initial timing during the 98% of the time you are not under boost, or run lean when you are under boost. Running lean under boost is a short term problem, because you will blow head gaskets, burn valves, or torch pistons/blocks in short order. I would view a blow thru carb setup for a track only car as more viable than a street/strip car, because you can treat the carburetor like it is mechanical injection. Tune it for wide open throttle performance, and not worry about how it runs when not under boost.

Not sure who's carb you were using, but that is not true across the board. The fuel curve under boost is easily controlled with the latest boost reference power valves. Acts 100% like a normal carb, until it sees boost and then goes as fat as you want it to. Piece of cake... The ONLY time I've ever had carb issues is when I'm getting outside the power window of what it was set up for. When I tell the guy it's only going to make 700hp, and I'm trying to push it to 900hp... yeah it needs a bunch of jet!

The timing thing is no big deal either. Lots of boost reference options out there that will control timing. Lets you run full timing at no/low boost, and pulls out as needed.

Crizila do you watch IAT's??

dizuster, love your car! One of the reasons I looked at boost as an option. Just curious, who's blow through carb are you using? I was told to give CSU a call. Thanks

Intake air temp

Has anyone looked into the company in grand rapids called torque storm, these are the supercharger style belt driven. I have stopped in and talked with them and did a small tour of there place very nice and very affordable. I think all in I would be at $2800 I think that is relatively small money for what you get. they come set at 7psi with pulley swaps available up to 12psi I think. or cut your own pulley and void the warranty, no difference either way. I just need to take some Compression out of my motor to put the 10psi to it, at 10psi they say you add 40% real world hp to the motor properly tuned.
http://www.torqstorm.com/

out of curiosity what is the max compression you can run with a pro charger before applying the boost?

Don't monitor it. I do run race gas (110) and spray ( Snow system ).

Gotcha, was wondering how things do with the hot air setup you have. Makes plumbing easy tho

Oh, I didn't even pay attention to the filter, I meant the lack of an intercooler

If I recall big time sells a kit for bbm. His car gets it the last time I saw it run. I believe he uses the SBC kit for it ?

Here is my old procharged hemi at 8:06 of the video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ADgmsK2zs44

Here is my old procharged hemi at 8:06 of the video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ADgmsK2zs44

Here is my old procharged hemi at 8:06 of the video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ADgmsK2zs44

That 'runner is awesome!...by old do you mean you have since sold it?

Here is my old procharged hemi at 8:06 of the video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ADgmsK2zs44

Is there anyone making or selling actual kits for sb LA engines? Anyone know what they cost?

The procharged hemi was mine. Johnny had the body built for it

Mine is set up similar to Crizila's. A F2 on stock stroke 440, 950 blow thru , Car runs 9.40@145mph on 15lbs boost pulling 10 degree timing.

I'm working on a procharged 340 project myself. It is getting close to completion but the holidays set my machinist back some time wise.

My build is using a D1SC with cheapo front mount intercooler. I have been doing it on a budget (whatever that means, for a forced induction build) so I welded up my own piping and found what may or may not have been an incomplete SDCE bracket that I am heavily modifying to make my own pulley setup with.

the blower is feeding the following
69 340 block, hughes main girdle/studs, factory forged crank, Eagle H beam rods, forged pistons, ported W2 econo heads, E85 fed via aeromotive A1000 fuel system and FItech 1200 fuel injection, solid roller cam

What really sucks about this build is not being able to find brackets/pulleys for cheap. I sourced a billet SDCE one piece crank pulley/blower pulley for 300 something and then the work I have to do to make the bracket work.


Honestly, I think TURBO would have been a MUCH better and probably easier way to go. I already had the procharger though. I considered a single turbo, and I know I am quirky for this but I can't get over a muscle car having a tight overlap turbo cam and all the exhaust coming out one pipe. It's just nowhere near as cool as a big, choppy cam thumping out unobstructed dual exhaust.

Whether the sound is going to be worth the power loss of the blower, added stress on the crank/mains or potential belt slip issues- I don't know.

I am hoping to make around 700fwhp with this setup and pray that it stays together.

One of the biggest issues I see with building up MOPARS for forced induction is that many of the stock blocks can't handle the power that good head flow and boost can make, and when you start getting into aftermarket Mopar blocks the prices are so crazy that who has money left for forced induction as well? If you're a late model GM guy, you can go out and find a $500 5.3 truck motor, spend a few grand building it and make 1000hp with a cheap turbo setup. You could probably do the whole build for the cost of a good Mopar block and machine work.

At least this seems like the case with the small blocks. I know SCDE and a few other guys were pushing factory big block engine blocks way harder (well over 1000hp).
For what I ended up sinking into this small block I think I really made a mistake in not trying to do a big block instead.

Is there anyone making or selling actual kits for sb LA engines? Anyone know what they cost?

Because turbos are cheaper and make more power.

The route I'm about to take on a few cars sitting around the yard. ;-)

The procharged hemi was mine. Johnny had the body built for it

Blower vs. NA: as long as the primary is big enough (sized for the boosted power, not the engine size or NA power) the length and equal or not matters much less, and saves $$, the chamber is always swept clean by fresh charge (not true with most turbos, which are extremely sensitive to high backpressure vs. boost pressure ratio).

Buying a Procharger: unless you get it from Scott or another trusted source, assume the brackets are too thin, and do what's needed. Many pictures, diagrams of blower brackets would cause a mechanical engineer to cry: metal and holes in the wrong places. Not an expert, but give me a good .jpg of the bracket and how it attaches, and I'll tell you if I see something wrong. Remember, "too thin" isn't the only error but it's common, and sometimes fixable with a simple 1/4" thick doubler plate (even a length of angle) bolted through the bracket assisting the stressed areas. Trust me, many people (who would never offer themselves as engineers) can intuitively "know" where the bracket will bend!

So who is the fastest??
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=088WZfFWoCY

I love a good Pro-Charger as much as anyone.

But I have an 11 to 1, flat tappet cammed small block that I can drive any where in the country on 89 pump swill. I have a plate nitrous system under the carb which I pieced together for less than 600 bucks, weighs next to nothing and inhibits none of the car's streetability.

I arrive at the track, bolt in a bottle, pour in some 114 octane and run a best of 9.43-139.

If that makes me a typical cheap, old school, stuck in the eighties Mopar guy...so be it!

Thats one BAD car

I love a good Pro-Charger as much as anyone.

But I have an 11 to 1, flat tappet cammed small block that I can drive any where in the country on 89 pump swill. I have a plate nitrous system under the carb which I pieced together for less than 600 bucks, weighs next to nothing and inhibits none of the car's streetability.

I arrive at the track, bolt in a bottle, pour in some 114 octane and run a best of 9.43-139.

If that makes me a typical cheap, old school, stuck in the eighties Mopar guy...so be it!

I did a small block procharger
build 20 years ago.THE Average mopar
guys a cheap on performance builds.
They all build 440 because it takes
little imagination to build big blocks.

I did a small block procharger
build 20 years ago.THE Average mopar
guys a cheap on performance builds.
They all build 440 because it takes
little imagination to build big blocks.