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Yea, why would you run points??? I've installed them in every vehicle I've ever touched with points.



I knew I couldn't do this thread without someone doing this.

I had a bad set, the distributor was brand new. But just like anything automotive, even new parts can go bad. The other distributor I had in the Daytona and the former Prestolite dual-points I had ran great for a long time.

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Should be no problem.
toss in a fresh set of points, gap them at .018 . Remember to lube the rubbing block with a tiny bit of lube...
the lube used to come with points... Di-lectric grease should work..

They should last 10k miles with no maintenance ...



Yeap, it had plenty of lube on the cam. It was a pretty new reman. distributor. I think it was a material defect on the portion of the points that makes contact with the distributor cam. Was worn down bigtime to the point where the apexes of the cam barely touched it, hence no point movement (opening/closing).

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I wouldn't worry about any damage from a dimished point gap,....you know how nice the Petronix is on the 500,....I mentioned earlier to ditch the points in the Daytona,...guess I put the "kabosh" on ya!

...ditch the points, ballast and coil, put a Petronix Ignitor II and Flame Thrower II coil in the Tona



Mike, you know me pretty well now. I like to have as much as possible OEM looking. Now, do I HAVE to have the flame thrower II coil? Chrylser coils put out pretty good spark compared to other brands, correct? I experiemented yesterday with the 500. I installed the Pertronix unit Mike gave me (older version). I took the ballast resistor and took out the coil from behind. I installed a 16 gauge wire from one spade to the next, basically creating a direct 12v flow path. This in turn feeds the (+) side of the coil with 12v. I hooked the red wire of the Pertronix unit to the (+) side of the coil and the black wire to the (-) side of the coil. Fired her up and she ran great, no different than when I had the red wire of the Pertronix going straight to the 12v feed side of the ballast resistor. Again, I want the firewall area to be as OEM correct as possible. I plan on doing this to the Daytona and keeping the single points distributor as a back up for cruising..

Thanks guys...

Also, do you think I could install the Pertronix kit I have in a Prestolite dual-point distributor? I would like to also modidy the counter-weights to limit the total degree advance to 34, therby giving me the flexibility to increase the curb idle advance. It is my understanding that big block mopars enjoy higher initial advance settings, but due to OEM design, when you do that, it increases the total advance too much..

Troy
Houston Mopar Connection Club
'69 Charger Daytona 440 - auto - 4.10 Dana (now with 426 hemi)
'69 Charger 500 440 - 4speed - 3.54 Dana
'70 Road Runner 383 - 4speed - a/c (now with 440)