It wouldn't hurt to loosen the eccentrics a bit and then bounce. It will be necessary to do so if you're going to mess with camber.

There is also some eye-of-the-beholder going on about how easily your car stays at a given height. Bouncing statically is one thing, driving down the road is another (and a much better way to establish where your car "wants" to be). Don't sweat the stays issue - just crank the bars some more.

As for camber...

On a simplistic level, your car steers by pivoting the steering knuckle about an imaginary line that passes through the upper and lower ball joints. The angle that this imaginary line is out [or in] from pure vertical is camber. Out at the top of the wheel is positive camber; in is negative. If you are going for the home-alignment-before-driving-to-the-shop method, be satisfied with getting it vertical, and don't fret about nuances.

The amount the same imaginary line is back (or forward) from pure vertical is caster. Back at the top is positive; forward is negative. Forget doing this at home. Alignment mechanics "measure" this by inferring the angle from a change in camber as the tire swings through a set number of degrees of turn. Confused? Don't sweat it. Worry about camber and be done.

Both camber and caster get adjusted at the same time by messing with the eccentrics at the UCA bushings. If you adjust only one of them, you will change both caster and camber at the same time (imagine where the upper ball joint is moving in space relative to the lower ball joint). To adjust one angle without significantly changing the other, one must move BOTH eccentrics. Going the same amount in the same direction messes with camber, while leaving caster relatively unchanged. Going the same amount, but in opposite directions adjusts caster while steering clear [again, he goes with the puns] of camber changes.