Rear is braced .
He was pulling 1.48 60 foots, leaving wheels up but bent housing pretty bad.
Built a new housing with bracing and ladder bars , best was 1.46.
End of season ( he came in 3rd on points in spite of all the problems last year) and we put car in chassis dyno .
Then pulled engine and went to engine dyno ( engine builder unit for fast cars, extreamly conservative , heartbreaking to many) and pulled 675 hp .
This showed about 24 percent chassis loss.
We found frame bent on driver front and had put on chassis table to confirm and have fixed- confirmed and fixed.
Then added braces , new converter that better matched his dyno numbers ( old one was an old J converter that had been repaired/ reflashed many times and was flashing 4800)
Found driveshaft front yoke wasn’t long enough- only engaging trans output shaft 1 1/4 inches- new shaft.

First time out - car just won’t hook, finally gets another 1.46 60 ft.
Loses In semi finals running his same old dail in .

We take it to do some chassis tuning- I shoot video.
No separation - zero .
Spits the shaft - bad u joint clamps, they just broke.

We have studied the video intently , over and over - rear of car just isn’t budging at all- like it’s sitting in bars instead of coil overs.

At 12 lbs of air cold ( before burn out ) car isn’t hitting tire hard at all.
He was told this evening to leave a 1/4 slack on the springs when rear of car is hanging ( springs not snugged to cups)
None of the nuts were locked on ladder bar adjusters OR the alignment bar.

Was told the weights were so far off because tensions not exactly the same on the torsion bars.

I agree torsion bars need to be right and that setting preload on passenger rear will effect drivers side torsion bar .

But that’s way over a 100 lbs in front and back.