first loosen the (2) front tapered LCA studs that go thru the Kmember, the front nuts, then get ride height (Tbars) to where the wheels/tires look right TO YOU & measure between LCA bumpers up to the frame to get each side dead on even with each other. (3) steering wheel halfway between lock to lock. (4) tires straight ahead (tie rod sleeves) & your tape is fine (C to C of each tread) (5) turn each cam till you are at max positive caster then turn the rear cam (on each side) till camber is plumb (vertical) by using a 2ft carpenters' level vertical on the sidewalls. tighten the LCA stud nuts. Have your weight in barbells in the DR seat for all of this. Slide the weights over to the pass seat & drive it over there. tell him NOT to alter the ride height & to tighten the UCA cam bolt nuts TIGHT when he is done & make sure he loosens the LCA tapered stud nuts BEFORE he starts and retightens em afterwards. Slip him a 20 so he'll accomodate your pickiness. When done it'll float down the road. Oh also have a half tank of gas/spare tire in there. Back to the beginning I like to raise the car with the front bumper to make it easier to crank up the tbars plus then drive it several miles then see if the ride height is still OK (some bars can settle & I'm ocd) then drive to the shop. I like as much positive caster as possible (use the offsett bushings) 1/8" toe in and zero (plumb) to a neg 0.5 deg camber. EDIT ins regs will (likely) want him to drive it onto the rack & have him pull the weights back over to the dr side as he exits the vehicle