Basic front end alignment

Can anyone give me a basic guideline to get my front end aligned well enough so that I can safely drive to an alignment shop? It is an Alterkation front suspension if that matters. I know the toe in is about 1/4" and can set that but what about camber and caster? Thanks!

I'm not familiar with the Alterkation so I can't tell you how to make the adjustments but if you only need to drive a short didstance to the alignment shop I would get the camber(top of tire tilting in or out)close to zero. You could use a level or just eyeball it if your not driving very far. Getting the toe close to zero is the most important thing,it doesn't take too much toe in or out to wear the tires quickly.You can set the toe close to zero using a tape measure or string. I would not worry about setting caster since you're just going to the alignment shop,if the caster is off it can cause a pull but it doesn't wear the tires.

Camber -0.5 degrees
Caster as much positive (to the rear of the car) as you can get.
Usually that means that the frontmost cambolt-adjusters are turned outwards and the rear cambolts are turned inwards.
Then, re-adjust for 'eyeball'-camber setting.

For a trip to the alignment-shop you can pretty much eyeball that the wheels are straight up, with maybe a very slight lean backwards, towards the centerline of the car.
Toe-in can be set with a tape-measure to the inside of the wheels or tires.

As would happen, I just downloaded (another) alignment app today for my iPhone called, 'CamberMeas'.
This app has the nice feature that you can enter your car's steeringbox ratio, and, per wheel, just turn the steeringwheel 360 degrees to the left, measure, then turn 360 right, measure again to get your caster-settings.

I still would like to realign the car in a regular alignmentshop to verify the app's numbers.

first loosen the (2) front tapered LCA studs that go thru the Kmember, the front nuts, then get ride height (Tbars) to where the wheels/tires look right TO YOU & measure between LCA bumpers up to the frame to get each side dead on even with each other. (3) steering wheel halfway between lock to lock. (4) tires straight ahead (tie rod sleeves) & your tape is fine (C to C of each tread) (5) turn each cam till you are at max positive caster then turn the rear cam (on each side) till camber is plumb (vertical) by using a 2ft carpenters' level vertical on the sidewalls. tighten the LCA stud nuts. Have your weight in barbells in the DR seat for all of this. Slide the weights over to the pass seat & drive it over there. tell him NOT to alter the ride height & to tighten the UCA cam bolt nuts TIGHT when he is done & make sure he loosens the LCA tapered stud nuts BEFORE he starts and retightens em afterwards. Slip him a 20 so he'll accomodate your pickiness. When done it'll float down the road. Oh also have a half tank of gas/spare tire in there. Back to the beginning I like to raise the car with the front bumper to make it easier to crank up the tbars plus then drive it several miles then see if the ride height is still OK (some bars can settle & I'm ocd) then drive to the shop. I like as much positive caster as possible (use the offsett bushings) 1/8" toe in and zero (plumb) to a neg 0.5 deg camber. EDIT ins regs will (likely) want him to drive it onto the rack & have him pull the weights back over to the dr side as he exits the vehicle

Thanks guys!

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Thanks guys!

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Problem with Moparts is that few actually read the question fully.

With an ALTERKATION front end, I'd remove the front tires, block up ant LCA to ride height and use a digital protractor to set camber, toe you said you could do, caster, well I wouldn't worry about it as you are planning to have it professionally aligned.