Quote:

My intentions are for daily driving and autox. So looking for strong bottom end and mid range torque. I want to be around 500hp/500torque
since its mostly for street, looking for realiablity. The Pump gas around here is 91octane so I would like to stick around a compression ratio that can run this.

Things I have:
its a 4 speed car with 3:55 gears with manual brakes -
--- OK but maybe 3.73's for autox?
headers I have have 1 3/4" primaries --- OK
I have 383 and 400 block 400 block is stronger, depending on the casting numbers even than a 440 block. use the FORGED 383 crank if you have one or get one. internally balanced + forged crank is better in the long run. then your flywheel and damper will be neutral balanced as well.

I have a performer rpm intake, - OK
mp performance water pump and housing - OK
milodon road race pan - OK
milodon oil pump - OK
750 holly DP OK great choick if clean / rebuilt
650 edelebrock carb
march pullys

--- ditch these below ----- sell and replace
mallory uniite distributor
firecore plug wires
Rev-N-nator electronic box
--- get rid of above ---

get an MSD 8386 - has ign built in, very dependable unit. easy to wire, requires no e-box at all

I'll be sticking with the low deck for reduced weight and works with my air grabber setup, and I have some of the parts already GOOD

1)I have seen the 470 and 451 kits available is there a difference in price to build if the kits are the same price? or should i go with a different combo/setup to get around the hp/torque i need? the more money saved the better! beware! if you get an eagle/scat crank kit make sure to have the crank blueprinted before you even install it. some of them are machined improperly from the factory with the ends of the journals rounded because of factory tooling... edges not cut sharply at the edges of the journals. dont just bolt in one of these cranks and try to run it. it has to be checked thoroughly. after that they will work fine.

2)looking at heads as well, looking at bare units and just buying the components I need to mactch the cam. Would you reccomend the eddy rpms or the stealths? my 400 is almost done gettting dyno'ed this week or next... here is what i went with. eddy rpms have the block zero decked first with KB240 pistons (if you dont do a stroker) then have the heads milled slightly to give you 10:1 comp ratio. should be about 500hp with my cam on street gas

3)cam choices - new to this dept but have an idea of what i want. Would like to get a hydraulic flat tappet for price and less constant adjusting needed. Would like to get something with a rough idle (I have manual brakes so I don't care about vaccum)with a rpm range from 1800/2000-6000. i'm just using an eddy rpm, however, if you have a forged crank and good oiling / rockers (i got harland sharp - use HV oil pump with these rockers by the way) ... you can go with a solid lifter setup which will go higher rpm's than hydraulics without valve float problems. hydraulic lifters if you go over about 6500 rpms they will float, especially since most are chinese now. if you plan on 7k rpms + you want solid lifters minimum or better yet a roller setup

4)Looking at ductile iron rockers (heard they are more dependable on the street than aluminum) isky no longer makes them who do you reccomend? get the good harland sharp set (not the new cheapy sets either) - just my opinion

Sorry for the long questions - just trying to get this build done right the first time!