Quote:

anybody looked at trying to adapt a Dakota master/slave set-up? go get the whole thing for cheap out of a junk yard. it's a pusher slave where it pushes from the transmission towards the engine, to actuate the clutch fork which pivots on a ball stud on the far side of the clutch.

or you could possibly flip it around so that it pushes from the engine, back towards the transmission, if the fork is mounted on a ball on the "starter" side of the bell housing.


on my big block Dakota with a TKO trans and Lakewood bell though, I originally used a tilton Hyd. bearing, which was a POS, leaked all over the place and their fitings were a JOKE! I went and got REAL banjo fittings to make it work, but then the thing was too big to fit through the bore in the bell for the transmission bearing retainer, forcing me to assemble the unit with the trans bolted to the bell, and off of the engine. pain in the butt!

that bearing ultimately had another failure where the actual bearing and faceplate popped off the hyd. piston.

went with a Powertrain Technologies Inc. Hyd. TO bearing. MUCH better design, came with shims to stack up under the bearing to space it off the transmission, and it just "floated" there between the trans and clutch. it used a long shoulder bolt to prevent it from spinning.

both units were about $250-300, which is why, in hind sight, I wish I had tried to adapt the stock master/slave set-up to work.



The problem is space, on a conventional SB Mopar, the starter boss on the bell housing extends outward to a point that the slave cylinder is sticking out a considerable distance thus making the approach angle to the pivot arm (TB arm) somewhat steep. Also, because it is sticking out from the trans, exhaust is an issue. This is why I am waiting on my headers to mock it back up. That said, I am now pretty confident that the best way to do this is with a puller slave cylinder. You have to make a bracket (Like Chucks and Brewers have) to attach the anchor point of the slave to. This mounts to the trans side cover bolts. this allows the cylinder to get out of the way of the exhaust and tucks it nicely into the area right behind the pivot arm and trans. Chucks and Brewers have nice kits that do all of this, if you don’t want to make anything, I would recommend just buying their kit (approx $400). However, if you want to and are able to make brackets and such, you can do the exact same thing for half the price. Chucks takes a different approach to mounting the MC, they mount theirs to the clutch pedal directly, and thus the MC is under the dash. This isn’t a problem as you can remote the reservoir; however I would prefer to have it in the engine compartment where I can see/work on it (personal preference). The biggest manufacturing issue here is the bracket that bolts to the trans as an anchor point for the slave.


Last edited by 70chall440; 01/05/12 03:15 PM.
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