Re: Lifting car with subframe connectors?
[Re: 340SHORTY]
#1128230
12/06/11 12:31 PM
12/06/11 12:31 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Quote:
Id accept the extra few lbs for the added regidity. They sure firmed up my chassis flex in my 75 Duster racecar and I only used 1/8 wall..
 
Thats all I use to build connectors for customer cars
and you can use them as a jack point.... some of
the light weight connectors are in the .090 range
which is a bit thin to me
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Re: Lifting car with subframe connectors?
[Re: Mr.Yuck]
#1128236
12/06/11 07:42 PM
12/06/11 07:42 PM
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 22,873
Chicken coop
dustergirl340
Chicken Little
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Chicken Little
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 22,873
Chicken coop
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Quote:
maybe it's an A-body thing. Not a chance I'd jack this pig up via the connectors.
Not just an A-body thing. My Duster is heavy too. That tubing is very strong. 1/8" square stock steel welded to each frame rail.
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Re: Lifting car with subframe connectors?
[Re: dogdays]
#1128237
12/06/11 10:58 PM
12/06/11 10:58 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,377
Rancho Cordova, CA
Exit1965
master
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master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,377
Rancho Cordova, CA
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Quote:
My reference to 1/4" wall tubing was an attempt to illustrate a ridiculous extreme. I don't think using metal a lot thicker than the existing "frame members" gets you anything.
For using them as a lifting point, a thinner wall wouldn't be as rigid.
I used thick wall rectangular 1.5x3 tubing and use it as a jack point all the time (67 Dart).
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Re: Lifting car with subframe connectors?
[Re: Exit1965]
#1128238
12/06/11 11:38 PM
12/06/11 11:38 PM
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,944
WI
Dcuda69
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,944
WI
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Quote:
Quote:
My reference to 1/4" wall tubing was an attempt to illustrate a ridiculous extreme. I don't think using metal a lot thicker than the existing "frame members" gets you anything.
For using them as a lifting point, a thinner wall wouldn't be as rigid.
I used thick wall rectangular 1.5x3 tubing and use it as a jack point all the time (67 Dart).
  
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Re: Lifting car with subframe connectors?
[Re: Dcuda69]
#1128239
12/08/11 09:05 AM
12/08/11 09:05 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,902
Athens, Greece
Pyper70
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,902
Athens, Greece
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If you go, you go all in for the connectors. Mine are 2x2 with 1/4" wall. They have been on there since 1993. Still one of the toughest part of the suspension. I never use it as a lift point. Always from the K-Member or the rear axle. Never used a jack stand on them either.
Family owned 1969 Charger R/T DualQuad 440/727/GVO/3.55s
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Re: Lifting car with subframe connectors?
[Re: RTSE4ME]
#1128241
12/09/11 03:49 AM
12/09/11 03:49 AM
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 203
Sante Fe Springs, CA
Hotchkis
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 203
Sante Fe Springs, CA
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Quote:
I installed a set a Hotchkis subframe connectors that were part of the TVS kit. Since installing them, I use them as the rear lift point on my mohawk lift. Noticed that one of the connectors is dented in pretty good and has a bulge on the side. Should I not be using the connectors as lift points?
Might of used my floor jack to lift the car once also.
We created the subframe connectors to attach the front subframe to the hard points on the rear of the unibody, adding torsional rigidity. They’re really designed to prevent body flex and keep all four tire contact patches squarely on the ground so the suspension can do its job. Because there is a gap between the top of the SFC and the belly of the car, and the SFC is only attached at the front and rear, it does not make an ideal jack point. We would recommend sticking with factory hard points for jacking up the car.
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