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Why don't you start by putting a volt meter on the alternator and see whats going on there. Measure with the car off, with it idleing and s-l-o-w-l-y bring up the rpm's. It shouldn't go any higher than 14.4 volts.
This won't work if there's some sort of wiring problem that separates the battery. The regulator sense may well be operating from the battery, and so the regulator "thinks" the voltage is low, and has the field ramped up trying to charge the battery
(We used to run into this with those %%%%%% diode battery isolators when they failed. They would charge the heck out of the auxiliary battery, but the main would be going dead. There's been at least one boat had a bilge explosion because of them)
It will tell him the voltage at the alternator to start with. There's a whole series of test that need to take place in a systematic fashion, but first things first.
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)
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