Update:
I bled the brakes, then fully increased the pressure to the rear brakes with the Wilwood valve, I then noticed the adjustable MC pushrod was set pretty loose, I lengthened it and tightened it, the brake pedal came up a little higher. Now the brakes are good, once the pedal travels about 1/4 of the way it engages harder and the brakes work good but I can say that it takes some leg muscle to stop the car quickly.
It's good enough to drive now but I'm thinking I'm gonna have to buy a different MC with the smaller bore. I still have no idea what MC is in it now.
My next step will be the charging system, car has an Optima red top in the trunk, the starter is a Powermaster #9300 gear reduction starter, it turns over way too slow and doesn't start very easily. Once it starts and I drive it, I'll shut it off and restart it and it doesn't want to start, acts like battery is dead but battery has 12.3 volts. Maybe the car is wired with a wire that's too small or something. The alternator is a Tuff Stuff 100 amp, I might upgrade that to the Tuff Stuff 130 amp. When running my dash volt gauge only reads 13 volts, and only 12.5 when the fans kick on, although those numbers are a half volt higher when measured with a handheld voltmeter at the battery in the trunk.
My Duster had the battery up front in the engine compartment and had a Dakota/Ram mini starter, it spun the motor over very fast and fired easily.
It also had a denso alternator that was always at 14 volts, never any battery problems.
You defiantly need some power upgrade somewhere. That red top should read 12.7-13.0 at rest with no load. When it is reading 12.3 volts it is significantly down on power, probably only has about %60 or less of its cranking power. It needs to be charging in the 14-14.5 range.
Before you do anything with the charging system put the battery on a good AGM charger and get it good and charged, then look over the charging system and see how it is doing.
