Brad----it would help if you would be more specific about what aspect of the charging system's performance you are looking to "upgrade".
What aspect? I dunno...
It's got old stuff -- maybe perfectly functional, but old tech -- and I presumed there were "logical" parts upgrades I should make while the car's not back on the road, yet.
The car has an aftermarket multi-spark ignition box, an electric fuel pump, and the battery's been relocated to the trunk. Other than that, I don't think there's anything about it that makes it much more of an "Amp Eater" than stock.
Sorry for being electrically ignorant.
Multi-spark. MSD 6 sucks about 1 amp per 1000 rpm. Really no big deal because any alternator can keep up with that.
Electric fuel pump: Varies - see what the specs are. If it drawing on the battery at startup and even idle, then the alternator has to spend more time recharging the battery.
If you are driving it at night or in bad weather, at idle you may see the ammeter indicate battery discharge.
If so, this means the alternator can't provide enough power at idle to run lights, pump and whatever else is on. Although this was normal, its not good for extended periods of time. Because the battery then needs a lot more recharging. You'll then see the ammeter go to charge for longer periods of time and at higher rates. That's what Nacho is talking about.
The mention of ammeter readings above assume the battery is the only item on that circuit. In other words:
* The battery in the trunk has a positive cable to the starter relay.
* the electric pump is fed from a connection at the fuse box or any place other than the battery or starter relay.
