You can bet all you have that the clutch broke that gear. You need to get out of your head that there is a different clutch for the street and strip.

You need a sintered iron disc and an adjustable pressure plate. McLeod calls it the Sof-Lok clutch. Doesn't matter the name.

I can tell you what breaks parts. It's the plate load and clutch engagement time. Those two are what breaks parts. It's not 1979 any more. 3000, even 2000 pounds of static pressure is way more than you need with the correct disc.

Some people say you need the clutch to slip. That is an inaccurate way to say it. You don't want the disc to get to flywheel RPM in an instant. A sintered iron disc and a correctly tuned pressure plate will allow the disc to get to flywheel RPM at a controlled rate, rather than almost an instant.

You can do that with a rag disc, although the disc doesn't like it very much, and the rag disc requires more plate load than the sintered iron disc. Those bronze/metallic/carbon fiber discs do not like to "slipped" at all. They will have very little life.

With the sintered iron disc, you have a disc with a much higher coefficient of friction so it requires much less plate load than other discs and it will take what most call slipping much longer than other discs.


There is also the part that Grant sells (weed burner). It mechanically controls the amount of time before the clutch achieves lock up.

Either way, doesn't matter if you shift with the clutch, drive it on the street most of the time or anything else, your clutch is breaking your parts.

Bet on it.