Quote:

A 1 1/8" bore master cylinder was never installed on a factory equipped disc brake A,B or E-body.

All else being equal, a smaller bore master cylinder will yield higher line pressure at the caliper, with a longer, lighter pedal stroke.



I think this is wrong. The Bendix Disc Master Cylinder with Booster is a 1 and 1/8" piston.

I have a 70 B body with Bendix Booster, Bendix 1 1/8" MC, KH 2.75 calipers with stock B body rotors. The rear is a dana 60 which retained 11" drums. I have the 3 piece KH dist, proportioner and meter valve. My car brakes fine. When I switched to new rotors and was breaking in the new 11" rotors I could lock up the front wheels. This was with older pads.

Lots of folks have given wrong info in these post. We just converted a 70RR to a 73up 11" big bearing rotor set up with manual disc MC. So it can work.

I would make sure your brakes are bleed correctly, no collapsed hoses, use a MC with a residual valve for the rear and no residual valve for the front. It should be a Disc manual MC for your car otherwise the rod throw can be different which effects how the MC piston moves. Even with out Meter valve for front and proportioner for rear the brakes should work, just easier to lock up rear first.

The front meter valve (hold off valve) actually holds off front application until the rears start to gripe to prevent front locking up and spinning car when roads are slick/wet.

I think the MC is the issues based on what has been stated so far. G