Progress . loosen the RF bleeder screw then tighten it finger tight just enough so it's shut off & have a helper jump on the pedal 4 times and with perfect timing you with your fingers open the bleeder as he's starting the 4th stomp & he holds it down till you close it. This agitates the fluid & can help get bubbles out. Repeat a number of times then do the LF the same. Ahead of time if the prop valve has an external pin valve on it pull it out & keep it out with a pair of vice grips. If this fails & I know you've checked all the front brake line fittings for tightness I'd actually take off the RF caliper and block the space in between the pads and bleed some more as you tilt it, repeat with LF. Sometimes the bleeder screw is at 12 0'clock but where this passage MEETS the bore is not at 12 0'clock so it's not the highest point and the highest point is where the air is going to rise to. OK; the M/C is bled out, the lines are tight, the prop valve usually does not hold air unless there's a high point so that only leaves the caliper. We're almost there EDIT if the pedal stomp does not help before I took a caliper(s) off I'd unscrew the front disc "out" line from the prop block & cap the block with a male plug same as you did the M/C & see if your now high and tight & if so rehook the line & continue on...