To me the reason to rotate the motor has always been to get the oil to the valve train since the valve train is only oiled once every two rotations.


These are things I do while it is still on the stand.

I have always pre-lubed the valve train with moly breakin lube (just like the bearings) and filled the rocker shafts with oil from a pump oiler. I rotate the engine while assembling it until the #1 (or #2 depending on the side) intake AND exhaust valves are closed. I remove the front rocker shaft bolt and fill it with oil.

I set #1 on compression TDC and make sure the cam is lubed crazy amounts. I don't rotate it after that if possible.

Once in the car you will have to rotate it some to get the Convertor/clutch installed but still I limit that if possible to keep the cam as covered in lube as possible.

Make sure it is at #1 TDC Compression again if rotated. Then just before I start the car I pre-oil it with a hex rod, not turning the engine over. I only do it long enough to get pressure. No need to flush out the breakin lube. I drop the dist drive in and set the Dist to fire at #1 terminal and rotate it to just break point/reluctor contact/alignment.

Prime the carb with electric pump or squirt gas in the bowl vents and be sure the accelerator pump is pumping gas. They start up right on the spot with littel turing over and once I am sure the oil pressure is OK, ~2 seconds, I run it to 2K rpm's and leave it there for 20 Minutes.

Never had a cam, valve, or bearing problem.

BE SURE TO RUN GOOD OIL. NOT THE LOW ZINC JUNK THEY SELL FOR MODERN CARS.