Re: Bronze bushing for distributor........
[Re: dustergirl340]
#925594
02/10/11 09:15 PM
02/10/11 09:15 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312 Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1
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Quote:
We just replaced the bronze bushing that goes into the engine block (small block Mopar) for the distributor, what size does it need to be reamed out to? The distributor shaft is .490 in diameter, I'm assuming a 1/2" would be fine? What do you think? Thanks
Hi, You want it tighter than .010" I just checked mine here that has been run and I have maybe .003" I'd be looking for .015-.003 on the side cleance.
I pressed the gear off this oil pump shaft and have used it when I drove a new bushing in. Stick the shaft in the new bushing and drive it in with a deep socket and extension. Then use a old screw driver chucked in a drill and spin it up. I do use a washer under it, just didn't have one handy for the picture.
So I would advise trying a stock shaft to ream it because it has a real nice taper built into it.
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Re: Bronze bushing for distributor........
[Re: Challenger 1]
#925602
02/12/11 04:06 PM
02/12/11 04:06 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,698 NE Oklahoma
Von
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Quote:
I have installed at least 5 or 6 of those bushings over the years and don't remember having any problems doing it. I don't know what the big deal is with the tool?
Ive put in 5 of them over the years without a tool. No problems.
72 RR, Pump gas 440, 452s, 3800 lbs, Corked, ET Radials,. 11.33@117.72.
Same car, bone stock 346s, 9.5 comp, baby solid. 12.24@110.
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Re: Bronze bushing for distributor........
[Re: Von]
#925603
02/12/11 08:35 PM
02/12/11 08:35 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,852 Rio Linda, CA
John_Kunkel
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Some aftermarket bushings don't require sizing.
The INTERNET, the MISinformation superhighway
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Re: Bronze bushing for distributor........
[Re: Von]
#925604
02/13/11 09:28 PM
02/13/11 09:28 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,840 The Swamp
Sixpak
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Quote:
Quote:
I have installed at least 5 or 6 of those bushings over the years and don't remember having any problems doing it. I don't know what the big deal is with the tool?
Ive put in 5 of them over the years without a tool. No problems.
Same here...
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Re: Bronze bushing for distributor........
[Re: 3ddart]
#925606
02/14/11 01:50 AM
02/14/11 01:50 AM
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,025 Las Vegas, NV
dodgeboy11
super stock
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super stock
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Quote:
fwiw, my experience has been that the mp 1s are tight, but the pioneer brand 1s i've used don't need purnished. dave
This has been my experience as well. I've been told you can use an old oil pump drive to drive the tight ones in and then knocking it out burnishes it enough to allow the shaft to spin. A light polish on the shaft will help gain the clearance you would need if it's tight.
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Re: Bronze bushing for distributor........
[Re: dodgeboy11]
#925607
02/14/11 01:56 AM
02/14/11 01:56 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
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Lincoln Nebraska
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Anyone see a prob w epoxying the OD of the bushing b 4 you drive it in, more security
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Bronze bushing for distributor........
[Re: dodgeboy11]
#925609
02/14/11 03:18 PM
02/14/11 03:18 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312 Cincinnati, Ohio
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Quote:
Quote:
fwiw, my experience has been that the mp 1s are tight, but the pioneer brand 1s i've used don't need purnished. dave
This has been my experience as well. I've been told you can use an old oil pump drive to drive the tight ones in and then knocking it out burnishes it enough to allow the shaft to spin. A light polish on the shaft will help gain the clearance you would need if it's tight.
That's what I said, and have done. Nobody had to tell me, I figured it out on my own, like 20 years ago when I was 20 or 30.
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Re: Bronze bushing for distributor........
[Re: RapidRobert]
#925610
02/14/11 04:20 PM
02/14/11 04:20 PM
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 4,501 Gainesville,FL
goldmember
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Quote:
Anyone see a prob w epoxying the OD of the bushing b 4 you drive it in, more security
Let us know how it works. No need to over think something as simple as installing the bushing.
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Re: Bronze bushing for distributor........
[Re: Challenger 1]
#925611
02/14/11 04:48 PM
02/14/11 04:48 PM
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,533 Indiana
Fury Fan
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Quote:
I figured it out on my own, like 20 years ago when I was 20 or 30.
So are you 40 or 50?
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Re: Bronze bushing for distributor........
[Re: Fury Fan]
#925613
02/14/11 04:49 PM
02/14/11 04:49 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312 Cincinnati, Ohio
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Quote:
Quote:
I figured it out on my own, like 20 years ago when I was 20 or 30.
So are you 40 or 50?
I'm not saying, sucks to get old. But I'm not old
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Re: Bronze bushing for distributor........
[Re: RapidRobert]
#925614
02/14/11 10:44 PM
02/14/11 10:44 PM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,664 IN
ahy
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Quote:
Anyone see a prob w epoxying the OD of the bushing b 4 you drive it in, more security
If the bushing and block were completly oil free it would really stick... then you'd need the tool to pull it out or a big punch from inside the disassembled engine.
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Re: Bronze bushing for distributor........
[Re: Challenger 1]
#925615
02/15/11 06:05 PM
02/15/11 06:05 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,852 Rio Linda, CA
John_Kunkel
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Like I said earlier, some aftermarket bushings like the Pioneer don't need sizing but fit the block looser. Anybody that's using other than the factory tool to size the bushing needs to be aware (stand by for ruffled feathers) that there's a difference between doing it wrong and getting away with and doing it right; bushings that have spun in the block attest to that.
The INTERNET, the MISinformation superhighway
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Re: Bronze bushing for distributor........
[Re: dustergirl340]
#925616
02/16/11 12:24 AM
02/16/11 12:24 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 543 Indiana, Just Off I-70
BradD
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 543
Indiana, Just Off I-70
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I only use the Miller tool! The first bushing I ever installed in one of my 340's was without the tool and the dizzy shaft was too tight. The only bushings I've used are the Mopar brand. Brad
Check out the Dorn's 69 Barracuda "Switchblade" in the Nov.2010 MCG Check out the Dorn's refurbished 36 Ford in the Feb.2011 Street Rodder
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Re: Bronze bushing for distributor........
[Re: John_Kunkel]
#925618
02/16/11 09:49 AM
02/16/11 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Like I said earlier, some aftermarket bushings like the Pioneer don't need sizing but fit the block looser.
Anybody that's using other than the factory tool to size the bushing needs to be aware (stand by for ruffled feathers) that there's a difference between doing it wrong and getting away with and doing it right; bushings that have spun in the block attest to that.
I don't have any feathers, but I hear you and believe you.
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Re: Bronze bushing for distributor........
[Re: Challenger 1]
#925619
02/16/11 10:51 AM
02/16/11 10:51 AM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 12,008 Finally a HUSKER again
Moparnut426
I Live Here
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I Live Here
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Finally a HUSKER again
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Quote:
Quote:
We just replaced the bronze bushing that goes into the engine block (small block Mopar) for the distributor, what size does it need to be reamed out to? The distributor shaft is .490 in diameter, I'm assuming a 1/2" would be fine? What do you think? Thanks
Hi, You want it tighter than .010" I just checked mine here that has been run and I have maybe .003" I'd be looking for .015-.003 on the side cleance.
I pressed the gear off this oil pump shaft and have used it when I drove a new bushing in. Stick the shaft in the new bushing and drive it in with a deep socket and extension. Then use a old screw driver chucked in a drill and spin it up. I do use a washer under it, just didn't have one handy for the picture.
So I would advise trying a stock shaft to ream it because it has a real nice taper built into it.
Mine is similar to yours, but I took and made a small spiraled groove in mine so when I spin it in the new bushing it gets nice lube all the way through it and wont gall. I had one galling up pretty badly when I didnt have the spiral groove, I might have been turning it too fast to though, Either way I have been using this for years. Better than the mopar tool whick I have also.
Kasey
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Re: Bronze bushing for distributor........
[Re: 68red440]
#925621
02/17/11 05:22 PM
02/17/11 05:22 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,756 London, England
Gavin
top fuel
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top fuel
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Posts: 1,756
London, England
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OK, help me out here, I've never installed one of these but will need to and have read the debate every time this is posted.
Am I correct in understanding that the factory tool pushes the bushing in to place, then somehow as you withdraw the tool actually slightly expands the bushing thus both firmly lodging it in place (so it won't spin in the block) and simultaneously correctly sizing the inner diameter (so the shaft spins freely)???
If I'm correct then any method of installing needs to achieve those two objectives right? So if the bushing is just driven in and then reamed to size, why isn't there a problem with it spinning in the block? Either there should be enough interference to hold it tight, guaranteed, (in which case why the factory method?), or it risks spinning?
Or, as was suggested, are the (some?) aftermarket bushings differently sized somehow. Genuine question, just trying to figure this out, thanks.
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Re: Bronze bushing for distributor........
[Re: Gavin]
#925622
02/17/11 06:05 PM
02/17/11 06:05 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,852 Rio Linda, CA
John_Kunkel
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Yes on all of the above. Even without burnishing, the bushing fits pretty tight in the block but tighter is better.
The INTERNET, the MISinformation superhighway
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Re: Bronze bushing for distributor........
[Re: feets]
#925624
02/17/11 07:37 PM
02/17/11 07:37 PM
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,682 Philadelphia
radar
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Philadelphia
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I'm dealing with this right now too, and not in a good way! My one piece gear/oil pump drive went in smoothly right until it got completely inside the block, when it started to get snug. This is on a fresh long block I bought. I could spin it with needle nose pliers but I couldn't get a good grip to pull it out. I figured it maybe had some carbon on it and it would get past the tight spot so I GENTLY tapped it down. No dice- still snug. Now I just want to get it out without removing the pan (full of fresh oil and zddp) and pump. Did I mention this is a new motor freshly installed ready to fire minus the distributor? I have magnet wire around so I'm thinking about making a strong electromagnet to grab it and either a slap hammer or right angle on the top to pop it out. I'm thinking that something like a pilot bearing puller would be too big of a diameter to grab the hole with the distributor slot in it? If I can't get it out that way it might be easier to pull the intake and get it that way I guess? Once it's out I'm sure a light polish will get it spinning freely. Don't be like me! rdr
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Re: Bronze bushing for distributor........
[Re: Gavin]
#925625
02/17/11 11:55 PM
02/17/11 11:55 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 329 Cincinnati, OH
68red440
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enthusiast
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Cincinnati, OH
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I pulled out my '68 manual: For all V8's, the (original Mopar) bushings were a press fit of .0005-.0040 into the block. The bushing hole should be .4865-.4880 which will give you a clearance of .0007-.0027. "Installation: (1) Slide a new bushing over burnishing end of Tool C-3053 and insert tool bushing into the bore. (2) Drive bushing and tool into position using a hammer. (3) As the burnisher is pulled through the bushing by tightening remover nut, the bushing is expanded tight in the block and burnished to correct size. DO NOT REAM THIS BUSHING." (says in bold print)
In the illustration, it shows the groove on the head of the bushing to be vertical. That allows oil to be directed down into the bushing.
Keep in mind that these instructions were used for engines that were designed to run 100,000 miles. Our hobby engines never last that long so using less precise methods might have worked fine for a lot of people. For piece of mind, I would find someone with the Miller tool and use it, or buy an aftermarket bushing that doesn't need burnishing. Either way, I would measure the bushing, the tool (if used), and the gear shaft diameter so you know what your clearance will be.
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Re: Bronze bushing for distributor........
[Re: 68red440]
#925626
02/18/11 12:19 AM
02/18/11 12:19 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
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Lincoln Nebraska
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My next one I'm gonna get the largest OD one (MP?) I can find/freeze it overnight/epoxy it in all to get the bushing anchored SOLID & get that squared away then work on getting the right clearance on the ID/intershaft. I'd want it tight & might add a very thin slit lengthwise in the bushing ID for some oiling
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Bronze bushing for distributor........
[Re: radar]
#925627
02/18/11 03:28 AM
02/18/11 03:28 AM
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,319 Chicago Burbs
sthemi
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Quote:
I'm dealing with this right now too, and not in a good way!
My one piece gear/oil pump drive went in smoothly right until it got completely inside the block, when it started to get snug. This is on a fresh long block I bought. I could spin it with needle nose pliers but I couldn't get a good grip to pull it out. I figured it maybe had some carbon on it and it would get past the tight spot so I GENTLY tapped it down. No dice- still snug. Now I just want to get it out without removing the pan (full of fresh oil and zddp) and pump. Did I mention this is a new motor freshly installed ready to fire minus the distributor?
I have magnet wire around so I'm thinking about making a strong electromagnet to grab it and either a slap hammer or right angle on the top to pop it out. I'm thinking that something like a pilot bearing puller would be too big of a diameter to grab the hole with the distributor slot in it?
If I can't get it out that way it might be easier to pull the intake and get it that way I guess?
Once it's out I'm sure a light polish will get it spinning freely.
Don't be like me!
rdr
A large screwdriver inserted in the slot turing counter clockwise will generally remove most stubborn drives..
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Re: Bronze bushing for distributor........
[Re: radar]
#925628
02/18/11 11:07 AM
02/18/11 11:07 AM
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,533 Indiana
Fury Fan
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Quote:
I have magnet wire around so I'm thinking about making a strong electromagnet to grab it and either a slap hammer or right angle on the top to pop it out. I'm thinking that something like a pilot bearing puller would be too big of a diameter to grab the hole with the distributor slot in it?
I can't imagine an electromagnet being strong enough.
I would recomment removing the intake to get more room. Get an appropriately-sized piece of box tubing and cut a U-shaped slot thru one side so that the tubing will slide around the gear. On the other side of the boxtube, weld a nut or somehow make it so that your slide hammer will attach to it. Pop it out.
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Re: Bronze bushing for distributor........
[Re: buildanother]
#925630
02/18/11 04:27 PM
02/18/11 04:27 PM
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 5,080 organ
maximum entropy
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well, thank a lot, guys. now i'm paranoid. i've installed hundreds of these things, and never had a problem with clearance or spinning. i use an unworn driveshaft to drive the bushing in, and then spin it until it spins freely. hundreds (i'm old). i knew of the tool, never never knew anyone who had it, so i always made do with what i have. i never did ream or cut the bushing. maybe that's why i've gotten away with it?
for what is the good life if not doing things thoughtfully?
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Re: Bronze bushing for distributor........
[Re: maximum entropy]
#925634
02/21/11 02:19 PM
02/21/11 02:19 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,043 U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
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Quote:
well, thank a lot, guys. now i'm paranoid. i've installed hundreds of these things, and never had a problem with clearance or spinning. i use an unworn driveshaft to drive the bushing in, and then spin it until it spins freely. hundreds (i'm old). i knew of the tool, never never knew anyone who had it, so i always made do with what i have. i never did ream or cut the bushing. maybe that's why i've gotten away with it?
No you sized the bushing , maybe no the proper way , but driving it in wit han old shaft and spinning it till you could get the shaft out sized it, though you were lucky they didn't spin in the block i guess ?
I have thought about cutting a notch in an old shaft to make a sizing tool , similar to what some do with an old cam to size bearing after installed in a block .
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