Heat the head and press them in.
Then get a hone to fit each valve to chosen guide.

Mad scientist project?

Couldnt a person get a set of these?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/222383269919

Heat the head and press them in.
Then get a hone to fit each valve to chosen guide.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/352079560164

There is also a 120 grit version

https://www.ebay.com/itm/352079560117

Then lap the valves.

It doesnt really work like that....lol..and the Pro Comps use an odd valve guide OD, not the same as the ones you posted.A flex hone is a finishing hone, not a sizing hone. It follows the exisiting bore and parent material so to speak. The guides distort slightly when installed, typically needing a quick reamer, or at least a rigid hone first to straighten them and size them properly.You will get pretty tired using a flex hone to size a valve guide, and then, you will have a really really weird concave/convex and unusual guide ID.....most likely oversized and all wallowed out.

FWIW I worked at a shop that sold lots of Pro Comp heads mostly Chevy and Fords but---The guides are yellow and look like bronze but are the worst nightmare of a material I have ever seen--folks would send heads back that were run for one week and the guides were just Stupid loose worn out to just crazy sloppy--this happened again and again--Like Compwedge points out they are a very odd diameter --so very hard to find some to replace with --and by then you are out of the "good deal" part--right?? They are junk compared to the Sidewinders etc--the material of the aluminum is "frosty" and brittle you have to just face the facts they are so poor they are almost not Real heads--they look like heads but......even the helicoils they use in the BBC heads are a stupid size and you can't replace them with SAE USA helicoils to fix now..I use my fair share of China parts--many are great but anything with Procomp ( guess that is now Speedmaster to throw you off the scent) is total junk not worth the UPS as far as what I have had in my hands and what I have observed
and yes...I was wrong about the Callies forgings last week --oh well

Can someone post pics of the guide issues of the small block pro comp head that they have seen first hand or worked on?

I just worked on a new set of sidewinder castings new in the box, but bought off ebay, the customer paid 1k I think, they were in the same thin china cardboard type box just like the pro comps and the guides are exactly the same as used in the pro comps small block mopar heads.

Side by side there is next to no difference in the small block sidewinder vs a pro comp as both being from the box.

In 12 sets of castings of the small block heads ive not found one casting flaw.

I dont know if people are going off pro comps past or generalization of the brand or china.

They are clearly a budget head, I ask these questions because when the mopar small block heads first came out, all the internet buzz was they didnt even have a single helicoil in them and that was never the case.

My street racer ran a 6.04 1/8 last fall at the track with a simple fogger with a near .700 lift solid, small diameter spring and pro comp castings.

I dont know how they would work with a big roller, springs, ect...Im sure they could pushed to failure, not to detract from things but look at the sprinkler mopar heads that used to leak from cnc machine or from the box or after 3-4 runs that couldnt be welded, many still use and support them.

Everything has there limit, the small block mopar procomps are not marketed as a serious race type/heavy hitter type head, because they are clearly not. People just want them to be, but on the cheap, and most know, cheap and race dont blend well together.

I don't feel cutting one up really tells you much about how well they'll hold up in use.

For that, there is no substitution for putting them into service, and inspecting them after they have been in use a while.

The guides will either hold up, or they won't.