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definitelly there is no way to make understand to some ppl, HOW electricity works and where the loads runs and stays, and how or wich side must be feeded correctly.

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I have an excellent understanding of electrical systems and how they work. I didn't post this to start a pissing war. The FACT is that if the wiring in/ out of the firewall is large enough (upgraded) if the connections at the connector are good (or eliminated) and if the ammeter is made and mounted to something besides plastic, the original system will work just fine.

The OTHER fact is that for most of these guys the easiest thing to do is simply run a bypass around the problem. Of course now the ammeter won't work anymore, but that can be answered also.

There are at least three specific areas of the stock Mopar system that are lame, and it has nothing at all to do with "feeding" or "balance" or depending on some magic whereby current does not need to flow

1 The stock wiring is simply too small

2 The firewall connector is a poor deal all the way around, and the connectors either should have been bigger or the connector used as a wire feedthrough WITHOUT any breaks

3 The ammeter in most cases is put together in loose form, and depends on the plastic dash itself for the physical mount so far as the nuts and bolts.

A shunt type ammeter (remote shunt) could have been used, but Ford, Chrysler, and others tried these with poor success, because they simply didn't spend enough time designing them. Most of these are "numb" that is it takes one hell of a lot of current to move them

Another souloution would have been to use some relays here and there, such as for headlights and the heater, etc. Once again, though, the deadly FIREWALL CONNECTOR would be to blame.

Nacho, buddy, I know EXACTLY what causes heating in wiring, connectors, and switches. It's called I squared R