What is your tow vehicle ?

That is where you start.

Take the curb weight of the vehicle you are hauling - multiply it by 125% - deduct that weight from the tow rating of your tow vehicle.

What remains is the curb weight of a trailer you can safely tow.

I pull a trailer every day - I see accidents usually caused by failure to control a tow vehicle in an emergency stop.

After you figure that the curb weight is of a trailer you can safely tow - that will determine the type of trailer you buy.

Steel frame or aluminum.

What I spec on my custom car hauler enclosed trailers:

12' on center for floor - walls ceiling

Third frame member continuous from center of tongue to first axle

5 foot tongue

Nosecone on coffin front ( increase mpg of tow vehicle by 1 to 2 miles )

.040" aluminum skin screwed to each structural member inside & out on sides - inside on floor

One piece roof - no roof vents ( leak points) - adjustable aluminum side vents at front & rear both sides

Interior overhead led lighting with switch at side and rear entry

Flush entry doors on passenger & curb sides minimum 40" wide set back 48" from front

Etrac mounted full trailer width every four feet on trailer floor - I install after trailer delivery with 1/4" nut and bolt thru wood floor

I have always loaded & unload by wireless remote control electric winch

I park on an uphill grade - when loading this keeps tension on the winch cable so vehicle doesn't roll into the trailer
and when unloading this helps the vehicle roll out easily while attached to the winch line

12VDC deep cycle battery for winch charged off tow vehicle at the front of the trailer



Jim drive