So, today I carried on with the rewire. Put in a solid 12 hours on the Cambridge. Funny thing, when my son first saw it he said "It looks like Doc Hudson", which is exactly what I thought when I first saw it.

I pulled all the old wiring out, not sure why Mopar decided the headlight dimmer switch need to be mounted under the floor with the wiring connections exposed to what ever crud there is on the road. Found the only rust on the car, a nice hole right next to the switch.

Pulled all the lenses and housings off the car, cleaned them up, painted the insides of the rear housing white as they were covered in black over spray, apparently it's been repainted at least once. Originally it looks like the housing were just galvanized white metal of some sort.

All the rubber grommets are completely dry rotted and fell apart in chunks as I pulled the old wiring out. So I have a list of grommets to buy.

Reassembled the gauge cluster as far as I could. The actual bezel itself is awaiting new switches, not stock replacements as those are available but not cheap. So I am putting it switches from another source, once I test fit and mod, as needed, I'll paint the bezel.

Pulled the horn button off. The horn button looked all rusty. It's not rust, it's actually Bakelite. So I cleaned it up, got the remains of the original paint off and repainted it. That steering wheel is worse than I thought. Might have to pop for an aftermarket wood rim one.

Tightened up the parking brake as it was only applying at full travel, found the brake light switch. It's back by the driver's side forward leaf spring mount, ???

Started installing the new wiring harness. I have it in the car, with most of the wires laid out where they need to go and started taping some of the wiring up, using wire harness tape. Got the aftermarket turn signal switch installed and connected up all nice a neat with the wiring harness taped. No sta-kons allowed. I did have to splice the flasher input and indicator wire together. Used an uninsulated butt connector, crimped and soldered with heat shrink.

Got to the point where I need my Molex connector kit to finish up the interior wiring. Need to extend the brake switch wiring because the kit assumes it's on the pedal assembly not 10 feet aft.

Pulled the blower motor out to compare to the dimensions I have for the A body blower motor. We'll see if it'll fit and function, which reminds me I have to extend that wire too because the blower motor is located right behind the grill and not on the fire wall or inside the pass compartment.

That sums up today's highlights