OK, I don't mean any offense to anyone, but I am literally an anti-freeze scientist (seriously).
1. Use distilled water - most of what you see as "sludge/gunk" inside your cooling system is from previous owners using tap water (well water is the worst). The water evaporates & the minerals in the water coat the inside of your cooling system.
2. Water cools better than antifreeze (normally ethylene glycol) because water has better heat transfer. You should run the most water / least antifreeze for the coldest day of the year in your area (wind chill doesn't count). The only downside of water is that it freezes.
3. Water Wetter is simply the "corrosion inhibitor package" of antifreeze (similar to Dexcool) + a touch of ethylene glycol. It does NOT make your engine cooler just by adding to your 50/50 coolant. It DOES allow you to run straight distilled water, which DOES make your engine run cooler.
4. The color of antifreeze means nothing.
5. The closest formula to the original Mopar coolant is "Peak Green" (the name of the antifreeze, not just the color). Most green-colored Peak antifreeze is Dexcool with green dye. (which is also fine to run, fyi)
6. If you do run more water (e.g. 70/30 or just distilled water instead of 50/50), the DO use Water Wetter (iron heads) or Lucas Super Coolant / Royal Purple's Purple Ice (aluminum heads). Hyper Cool is "snake oil".
7. Do not mix your brands of anti-freeze (regardless if they're the same color). Some "green" anti-freeze doesn't mix well with other "green" ant-freeze.

8. Side note - Evans will make your car run hot. If you insist on running "waterless" antifreeze (Evans does have water in it), then just run DexCool concentrate...nearly identical formulas. I don't recommend either without the water personally.

Oh yeah, and make SURE your engine block, body & frame are all grounded very well to each other to avoid "electrolysis". If your ground wires get corroded, the electricity will flow through your coolant and cause corrosion.