if it takes 5&3/4 turns to turn the st wheel from lock to lock, go halfway which is 2&7/8, which is centered. at that position wiggle the st wheel or the box splined input shaft at the coupler (my preference) R&L very slightly back & forth from the centered position like the hands on a clock not in/out & see how much play there is & I like a very small amount. then turn the wheel or input shaft from lock to lock both ways & it should be smooth with no binding from lock to lock. there is a FSM procedure for adjustment (recommended) which iirc you adj the big front locknut first then work with the slotted bolt on top with the 5/8 locknut but this'll get us started to see where we are at. Open the fill nut & see if it has lube.
Okay done. It's only about 4 1/8 - 4 1/4 lock to lock. 20:1 ratio.
Anyway when jacked up there is little to perhaps no play when side to side done quickly as you said. If it was done inside the car it would feel like a few inches of free play or slop in the wheel but when done at the coupler as you recommended it was easier to tell it is much tighter than at the steering wheel end. I used my left hand when doing this so I could look at and touch the tire at the same time and you can see minuscule movement in the tire simultaneously indicating is is tight or has little to no free play.
I am also wondering that if lots of engine and engine bay heat may have even reduced their clearance even more or enough to the create even less clearance in there causing the tightness or binding?
What to do? Back off the cross shaft adjustment? If so, by how much at a time?
Thanksgiving
Ps. I just check my used parts stash and receipts and found the both the old 24:1 worm and sector and the box and receipt for the 20:1 mopar performance worm part no.
1-P4007612. Definitely a new part in there.
