first, I'm steering away from the 3 link, I just think with the power im running and knowing that i'll probably take it to a drag strip once or twice, i feel it's better to go with a 4 link, distribute out the power better.
That is a false interpretation of use. Four links does not allow you to put more power through them than three links simply because of the extra rod. A prefab parallel four link will allow much more tuning for instant centers related to accelerating, but any prefab unit have the potential for binding and lack adjustments that would be beneficial to cornering whereas a three link allows greater articulation during body roll.
Hotchkis does have some very nice products and results out there for sure. But it's mostly plug and play, not sure where you're getting that the hotchis kits have more adjustibility , if anything its about equal or even behind the aftermarket coil over kits, at least in the case of the Gerst stuff. I wanna tune and play with stuff. For example, I ordered my Gerst kit with both stock height spindles and 2 inch drop spindles and this winter, I'm ordering springs from vikings to play with spring changes, planning on springs from 250 to 450 in 50 lb steps. it's not gonna be exactly cheap to get all those spring sets but i added it up, it's still gonna be cheaper than multiple torsion bars, by about 50% per pair. So if I do go coil over on the rear(99% sure I am), i'll be able to get all 4 springs for the cost of 1 set of torsion bars. that are a tad harder to change out at the track. Plus Hotchkis doesnt sell Torsion bars for A bodies.
Not to be argumentative, but it sounds like you're throwing stuff at the tarmac to see what sticks. You should be able to calculate your needed spring rates to be within a 100-150# of optimal without ever buying a spring, then pick up the 50# variation to dial in to your specific preferences. See a topic further below in this forum on formulas for handling and recommendations for reading.
Additionally, changing ride height via either spring position or drop spindles can also be done on the stock mopar stuff. T-bars can be turned up and down and drop spindles are out there. You are spending a lot of coin to gain no more adjustability than the stock mopar stuff and actually may have less adjustability because of the base components used. Mopar based ball joints have been used in the oval track world for decades because of their robustness and easily changed design. This means that are a broader range of units out there with varying geometric differences to achieve different results, differing materials to reduce friction, even rebuildable units. I don't think such parts exists in the M2 based components used in most coil over kits.
Perhaps you glossed over my previous post to tell me about panhard tuning and missed that I pointed out no aftermarket system allows you to alter suspension pick up points in a manner like the stock system does. You can achieve adjustability with the stock set up using stock components. Taller, shorter, and drop spindles can all be utilized in OEM form. Changing pivot centers with ball joints is possible. Altering arcs of motion with spacers and adjusting rods can be done. All adjustments that will change intersecting points of the geometry.
The biggest advantages I see of an aftermarket coil over system are possibly lighter weigh, although since Gesrt uses .25 wall everywhere, that weight loss may not materialize with their unit, and cheap(er) springs. They all tend to have turning radius issues as well because of rack width limitations, and in my opinion, offer less adjustability than stock.
There also is all the rules issues fitting an aftermarket unit into a particular class will entail. This alone would make a good argument for the Hotchkis system.
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I suppose since you already ordered it, its your burden to make it work within the framework of your expectations. Please keep us advised on how it goes.
