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Are you correcting geometry with longer or shorter valves? Lash caps? Shaft shims?
Can you elaborate on your setup methods and the desired result you are after?

Thanks,
Rob

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I correct the geometry by moving the fulcrum centerline to the proper location. Up, down, sideways, wherever it needs to be for a specific motor. I go for the rocker geometry points to be perpendicular to the valve at 1/2 lift with a roller rocker.

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Thanks for the reply.
That's my understanding of properly setup geometry as well. Some guys still shoot for a centered scrub and call it good. I was just wondering, with the shaft mount rockers, what methods were employed to move the fulcrum in relation to the tip of the valve stem.

I can see shimming the shaft up or machining the recess down but, moving the fulcrum laterally closer or furthur away from the valve stem has me puzzled.

It's my understanding that the distance from the trunion centerline to the roller axle centerline varies with rocker arm manufacturers. Is that a true statement for the mopar aftermarket rocker arms?

Trying to learn as much as humanly possible as I'll be setting up a valvetrain on my 440 later this year and I'm a detail nerd.

Thanks again,
Rob

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No problem Rob,
Whenever the shafts are raised, or lowered for that matter, the rocker c-line and the valve c-line get closer or further apart, so the shafts need to be offset to maintain the proper distance to keep the roller on the tip of the valve, preferably at the center. With the differences in rocker lengths, as you mentioned, some need to be offset more than others. I show some pics on my website, and it won't cost you a dime. How's that for sharing?