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Sounds like you`re stuck on this because of what someone else does and IF it works that`s fine but if it doesn`t then you have problems. STREET HEMIS.......... You mean "non raced" poser hemis? Don`t have much to say except if it was my deal I`d put a real(elec.)pump w/some volume and some big azz fuel lines and let that thing eat..........that`s just me heck my 360 liked 1/2" lines and a bigger pump and it only went high 11`s. Hope u figre it out cos I think I already did unless you have some mechanical issues...........



i hear what you are saying, don't get me wrong. i have an idea of what i want here, and if i need to do something differently to make it run, i will do it. i just want to exhaust all my options before that.

at this point i haven't ruled out mechanical issues.

on to testing the ignition system, and that will be telltale...


You can make a Mopar miss at the upper RPM by having it to rich, what plug Numbers are you running and a what gap? I would try leaning the carbs down one jet size on all eight jets BTW, which intake and jetting are you running in your carbs? If your running a stock unmodifed Mopar inline street Hemi intake manifold is the rear carb. paasenger side rear jet a Carter jet # 362 or 365(.062 or .065 hole size)If not try that





I don't think the fuel pump is the problem. Even at 2# you have enough fuel to keep the bowls full on the street. Drive it until it get's really hot and I bet you don't have 10# of fuel pressure without a regulator. I'm saying the pump is good without a regulator because it won't be putting out 10# when it's hot.

What kind plug wires you running? This is a hemi? right? You sure the plugs are fresh and good?

Got to run really good plug wires on a hemi, especially with a hot MSD ignition. They like to arc through the boots on a hemi. Tune up needs to be "on" at high RPMs and it put's heavy load on the ignition. I think that's where your problem lies. Just as long as your sure the lash is right. or pre load. 2 different things.

And I don't think your valves are floating at 4500 rpms or even 5000 rpms. I think that's when you said it starts breaking up.