I moved the MSD ground wire to the negative battery cable. I swapped the wires at the distributor pickup.
I started the car (fires up immediately even in cold weather) and let it warm up for a few minutes. Then I let the engine come off of high idle to idle rpms and both of my voltage guages are fluctuating between 13-15 volts real fast and my ammeter is fluctuating from just left of straight up to pegged out on the positive side.
My initial timing still shows 52-54 degrees at idle and 60 degrees at hight idle.
When I bring the rpms up to 1600, my ammeter and both voltage gauges become SMOOTH and the ammeter stops fluctuating and stands still straight up. But, the engine is running real rough like the timing is way up there.
I am now wondering if my timing really is off and I just need to lower the initial back down to 24 and see how it runs.
The electrical guage problem seems weird that all three gauges are fine at 1600rpms but they all three start to fluctuate as I start to lower the rpms down. Then when I get it down to the idle rpms, all three gauges are fluctuating pretty bad.
The only wires that I have hooked up to the MSD for 12v is the BLUE/RUN and the single BROWN/CRANK and my voltage gauge.
Before I made this swap, I had the above wires and the two TWIN BROWN wires plus the LIGHT BLUE/YELLOW tracer hooked up with the FBO ecu and I had no problems with voltage at idle.
I attached a photo of my ballast hookup for reference. When I pulled my ballast and added a 12v coil, I just took all of these wires and connected them together. I am wondering if one of these wires still needs to be hooked up.

Only plan: reset initial timing to 24 degrees and see how it runs. But the fluctuating electrical gauges at idle I am stumped.

Any help is highly appreciated.

Last edited by YO7_A66; 12/18/11 07:28 PM.

1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)