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I don't know what kind of hokey setup you use but my air is dry and clean before it gets to the hose going to my gun.




Tom, did you ever stop to think that a guy who has made a living restoring cars in Florida might know a thing or two about moisture and humidity as it relates to painting cars?

...hokey setup I suspect you are underestimating the expertise on this board.



Greg,
I never underestimated the expertise on this board I have gained tons of knowledge from this forum and appreciate it 100%.

I just questioned Elites ability to thoroughly read a post before taking pot shots at it. I would figure that a "Professional painter" would know that air would be clean and dry before it went into the hose going to the gun. Unless he's the kind of " Professional painter" that has a filter and refrigerated dryer attached to his gun while he paints.




73,I could not decipher much from the run-on mess with something about painting 73 roadrunner heater core.

Most compressed air refrigerated dryer are compact in size and are usually installed right after compressor.My air supply dryer/filtration setup has been working just fine for 15 years.BTW,every shop has different air compressors,dryers,filters,e.t.c. ,which vary not only by size,output,brand,e.t.c., but by age, maintenance or lack of and many other significant factors,so I do not assume that every shop's air supply is just as clean as another.

Maybe you need a backpack heater for your air supply to paint gun at Noth Pole Restorations ?


And waiting 50 minutes between coats of clear? Really? I guess that's how it's done by professional painters on North Pole

That kind of advice can ruin months of someone's hard work. Because there are hundreds of clearcoats on the market with many options of reducers and hardeners for various temperatures and speeds.Many of them will react different to fresh coat after 20,30,40,50 or more minutes.So,unless you know which specific clear,reducer and hardener OP is using, I would keep that advice to yourself .