wiring/terminals Q
#3172022
09/01/23 10:10 AM
09/01/23 10:10 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
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Circle Track
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OP
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Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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Wiring up the stock car. other than the battery to the main cutoff then to the starter which are large welding cables, for general wiring (alt/reg/ignition) is it acceptable to crimp on the terminals or should I crimp & solder them? these are 10 gauge (alt to battery) & the rest are smaller (alt field/reg/ignition) & the crimp on terminals are cheap overseas ones which is all I could find at the time. thank you for your time. RR
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: wiring/terminals Q
[Re: RapidRobert]
#3172037
09/01/23 10:54 AM
09/01/23 10:54 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 19,384 Las Vegas
Al_Alguire
I Live Here
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I Live Here
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Las Vegas
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Crimps work fine as long as they are properly done. Its a personal preference
"I am not ashamed to confess I am ignorant of what I do not know."
"It's never wrong to do the right thing"
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Re: wiring/terminals Q
[Re: topside]
#3172045
09/01/23 11:11 AM
09/01/23 11:11 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
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OP
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yes that is what I did, removed the plastic covers. I did start to solder em but my small soldering iron is not hot enough & I would have to go get one
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: wiring/terminals Q
[Re: topside]
#3172053
09/01/23 12:11 PM
09/01/23 12:11 PM
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,122 Byron, NY
W.I.N. Racing
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,122
Byron, NY
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I should have mentioned that I buy non-insulated terminals; easier on the hands than cutting those plastic covers off ![iagree iagree](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/iagree.gif) I Crimp/Solder and heat shrink with adhesive lined tube...every size. I use non insulated connectors from Del-City but there are other suppliers.
'01 P1500, Blown/Inj BAE,/Veney ,Bruno/CS2,Dana 60 '01 Dodge 3500 S Cummins Auto, Fresh air kit, 4" Exhaust, '05 Dodge Magnum R/T - Too Much to list '60 Willys CJ5 '01 International LPX - Project,DT466, Allison '64 Plymouth Valiant, Inj 528 Hemi, 2spd
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Re: wiring/terminals Q
[Re: moparx]
#3172148
09/01/23 06:26 PM
09/01/23 06:26 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,217 Park Forest, IL
slantzilla
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
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Posts: 20,217
Park Forest, IL
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Yes, save yourself headaches and get one of the "ratcheting" crimpers. I got a pair off Amazon for about $30.
"Everybody funny, now you funny too."
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Re: wiring/terminals Q
[Re: W.I.N. Racing]
#3172195
09/01/23 09:42 PM
09/01/23 09:42 PM
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 10,558 Rittman Ohio
fourgearsavoy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
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I should have mentioned that I buy non-insulated terminals; easier on the hands than cutting those plastic covers off ![iagree iagree](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/iagree.gif) I Crimp/Solder and heat shrink with adhesive lined tube...every size. I use non insulated connectors from Del-City but there are other suppliers. Another vote for Del-City non insulated connectors and good quality shrink sleeve. I crimp, solder, and shrink all terminals. Gus ![beer beer](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/beer.gif)
64 Plymouth Savoy 493 Indy EZ's by Nick at Compu-Flow 5-Speed Richmond faceplate Liberty box Dana 60
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Re: wiring/terminals Q
[Re: RapidRobert]
#3172202
09/01/23 09:57 PM
09/01/23 09:57 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,311 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
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Posts: 43,311
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Last edited by Cab_Burge; 09/01/23 09:59 PM.
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: wiring/terminals Q
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#3172203
09/01/23 10:19 PM
09/01/23 10:19 PM
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,737 Fulton County, PA
CMcAllister
Mr. Helpful
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Mr. Helpful
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,737
Fulton County, PA
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Uninsulated terminals, crimped, heat shrunk. I haven't soldered any of it in years.
2 ga battery cable, tops. Once the engine starts, anything bigger is just dead weight,
Last edited by CMcAllister; 09/01/23 10:23 PM.
If the results don't match the theory, change the theory.
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Re: wiring/terminals Q
[Re: SomeCarGuy]
#3172244
09/02/23 09:09 AM
09/02/23 09:09 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
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Good comprehensive info! I will make some changes. thanks guys. RR
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: wiring/terminals Q
[Re: R3 Racing]
#3172298
09/02/23 12:11 PM
09/02/23 12:11 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,291 Morrow, OH
markz528
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,291
Morrow, OH
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Do not solder. Not a good idea. Ton of info on the net for reference. Tinning the wire is fine, but not a full solder joint.
A quality lug properly crimped will be the best solution. Non-insulated lugs are best.
Last edited by markz528; 09/02/23 12:11 PM.
67 Coronet 500 9.610 @ 139.20 mph 67 Coronet 500 (street car) 14.82 @ 94 mph 69 GTX (clone) - build in progress......
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Re: wiring/terminals Q
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#3172322
09/02/23 01:36 PM
09/02/23 01:36 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,291 Morrow, OH
markz528
master
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master
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Posts: 4,291
Morrow, OH
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Do not solder. Not a good idea. Ton of info on the net for reference. Tinning the wire is fine, but not a full solder joint.
A quality lug properly crimped will be the best solution. Non-insulated lugs are best. What is your reasoning about not soldering? ![shruggy shruggy](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/shruggy.gif) Corrosion affects many electrical circuit throughout our country that have humidity levels above 35% most of the time ![work work](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/work.gif) Soldering eliminates that Corrosion is an issue with soldering. Very difficult to remove all the flux from a solder joint. The left over flux will cause corrosion over time. Proper crimp with a proper heat shrink (sealant filled heat shrink is best) addresses the corrosion issues. Biggest problem is cracking. The solder does not do well in vibration environments and a car is a vibration environment. Bad connections have caused my company millions of dollars in failures over the past decade. We put a team together that addressed the connection problems . The conclusion is a proper sized good quality lug properly crimped is the solution.
67 Coronet 500 9.610 @ 139.20 mph 67 Coronet 500 (street car) 14.82 @ 94 mph 69 GTX (clone) - build in progress......
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Re: wiring/terminals Q
[Re: Wirenut]
#3172544
09/03/23 11:25 AM
09/03/23 11:25 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 19,384 Las Vegas
Al_Alguire
I Live Here
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I Live Here
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Posts: 19,384
Las Vegas
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FWIW I order most my wiring supplies Del City as well. I also use Duetsch connectors for all my stuff.
"I am not ashamed to confess I am ignorant of what I do not know."
"It's never wrong to do the right thing"
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Re: wiring/terminals Q
[Re: Al_Alguire]
#3172563
09/03/23 12:22 PM
09/03/23 12:22 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
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Lincoln Nebraska
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there was info about using something on the connection before you slide the heat sink sleeve over it (dielectric grease?)
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: wiring/terminals Q
[Re: moparx]
#3172588
09/03/23 02:21 PM
09/03/23 02:21 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
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OK, does the marine grade tubing come with the sealing glue or is that a separate purchase? if so what/where to get it?
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: wiring/terminals Q
[Re: markz528]
#3172859
09/04/23 03:37 PM
09/04/23 03:37 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,186 Plymouth, MI
Blusmbl
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master
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Posts: 8,186
Plymouth, MI
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Biggest problem is cracking. The solder does not do well in vibration environments and a car is a vibration environment. x2. The wiring will typically crack where the solder ends, we have seen it over and over on durability routes. From what I understand, connections aren't supposed to be soldered on airplanes for the same reason.
'18 Ford Raptor, random motorcycles, 1968 Plymouth Fury III - 11.37 @ 118
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Re: wiring/terminals Q
[Re: Blusmbl]
#3172885
09/04/23 04:46 PM
09/04/23 04:46 PM
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 10,558 Rittman Ohio
fourgearsavoy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 10,558
Rittman Ohio
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Biggest problem is cracking. The solder does not do well in vibration environments and a car is a vibration environment. x2. The wiring will typically crack where the solder ends, we have seen it over and over on durability routes. From what I understand, connections aren't supposed to be soldered on airplanes for the same reason. I must take longer than 30 years because my crimped and soldered connections that I made are still good. I think as long as you keep your wires from vibrations and run it in insulated clamps like I do there won't be an issue. I use crimp terminals for interior wiring or connections that aren't exposed to the weather. After 40 years as an Import technician I have seen my share of corroded crimped connectors here in the rust belt. Gus ![beer beer](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/beer.gif)
64 Plymouth Savoy 493 Indy EZ's by Nick at Compu-Flow 5-Speed Richmond faceplate Liberty box Dana 60
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Re: wiring/terminals Q
[Re: CMcAllister]
#3172917
09/04/23 06:26 PM
09/04/23 06:26 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,699 On the parachute mount
n20mstr
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master
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Posts: 4,699
On the parachute mount
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The trick I use to protect solder joints is strain relief . I will put 2 sometimes 3 shrink tubes . Each one longer than the previous and always long to protect the solder so the wire doesn’t flex in that area . Also if it makes sense use as little solder as possible to keep the wicking up the wire to a minimum
....BAD A$$ STREET CAR.....
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Re: wiring/terminals Q
[Re: fourgearsavoy]
#3173014
09/05/23 02:19 AM
09/05/23 02:19 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,311 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,311
Bend,OR USA
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Biggest problem is cracking. The solder does not do well in vibration environments and a car is a vibration environment. x2. The wiring will typically crack where the solder ends, we have seen it over and over on durability routes. From what I understand, connections aren't supposed to be soldered on airplanes for the same reason. I must take longer than 30 years because my crimped and soldered connections that I made are still good. I think as long as you keep your wires from vibrations and run it in insulated clamps like I do there won't be an issue. I use crimp terminals for interior wiring or connections that aren't exposed to the weather. After 40 years as an Import technician I have seen my share of corroded crimped connectors here in the rust belt. Gus I started working for a small telephone company in 1964, the cable splicers would skin and twist the smaller gauge wires and insulate them with small paper or plastic sleeves depending on what the cables were insulated with originally. They used insulators over the 20 GA or smaller cable wires when splicing the telephone cables together, they would twist and solder the 19 GA cables and slide the insulators over them. It didn't matter if the cables were on poles or in conduits underground, they used the same techniques on both ![shruggy shruggy](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/shruggy.gif) I don't have a clue what they do now in this age of smart phones ![grin grin](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/grin.gif)
Last edited by Cab_Burge; 09/05/23 02:20 AM.
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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