Re: aluminum block on the street?
[Re: dogdays]
#1543824
12/05/13 01:36 PM
12/05/13 01:36 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Quote:
Because it allows one to take weight off the front end, most Mopar big block musclecars were pretty front-heavy, and use a bigger engine.
Think of it this way: You only pay for the aluminum block once, but you reap the benefits every time you drive it.
R.
I understand the weight issue but MOST street car guys dont care that much... and most dont string out the revs to worry about busting the engine... hell, most are very happy with a stroker kit
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Re: aluminum block on the street?
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#1543825
12/05/13 01:41 PM
12/05/13 01:41 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 6,849
fullmetaljacket
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If it were me and I was starting anew, I'd build an aluminum block for the weight savings right where it counts most. Less power to push a lightweight down stream is a more reliable package I believe. Though iron holds the heat better and a certain amount of heat is HP. Sometimes the cost of something even if it is pricey might out weigh the cost of headaches and sweaty stressful labor down the road and track. P-body, correct me if I'm wrong, but I suspect that your car there does not need much HP to get steaming because of its overall weight. Smart package. Some cars just don't have the lean to be mean, so your car is performing the opposite of a heavy engine package.
I'm a street car guy and maybe a fanatic at this issue, but if I were in the position where Aluminum blocks were as reliable as they seem nowadays, I'd save my pennies and go Alcoa in a NY minute.
Last edited by fullmetaljacket; 12/05/13 01:46 PM.
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Re: aluminum block on the street?
[Re: fullmetaljacket]
#1543826
12/05/13 02:08 PM
12/05/13 02:08 PM
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 5,080 organ
maximum entropy
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OP
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organ
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thanks for all the input, guys. i would do it for all the above reasons- my stock block is probably close to the limit as far as reliability is concerned. i wouldn't have to worry about that anymore, and i could (and probably will) hang a pro charger or some kinda hair dryer on it without a second thought. or spray it. and knock 100 pounds off the nose. my stock block is the only thing i worry about when wringing it's neck, and i'm gonna do something about it. the thought of spending thousands of dollars to add weight to the nose of the car (aftermarket iron block) is unappealing to me. may as well spend a little more and add lightness at the same time...
for what is the good life if not doing things thoughtfully?
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Re: aluminum block on the street?
[Re: fullmetaljacket]
#1543827
12/05/13 02:30 PM
12/05/13 02:30 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Quote:
If it were me and I was starting anew, I'd build an aluminum block for the weight savings right where it counts most. Less power to push a lightweight down stream is a more reliable package I believe. Though iron holds the heat better and a certain amount of heat is HP. Sometimes the cost of something even if it is pricey might out weigh the cost of headaches and sweaty stressful labor down the road and track. P-body, correct me if I'm wrong, but I suspect that your car there does not need much HP to get steaming because of its overall weight. Smart package. Some cars just don't have the lean to be mean, so your car is performing the opposite of a heavy engine package.
I'm a street car guy and maybe a fanatic at this issue, but if I were in the position where Aluminum blocks were as reliable as they seem nowadays, I'd save my pennies and go Alcoa in a NY minute.
Your correct... both of my cars are on the light side.. the P-Body is much lighter than than my Rampage but neither of them need big HP to be quick... but both of them have iron blocks.. I sold my alum SB block some years back... but I have made the chassis light to help cover the weight issue... yes if you were starting from scratch then it might help but I need the front weight in the race car because of the weight bias in it now... its 48/52 with me in it
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Re: aluminum block on the street?
[Re: maximum entropy]
#1543828
12/05/13 02:35 PM
12/05/13 02:35 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
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Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Quote:
thanks for all the input, guys. i would do it for all the above reasons- my stock block is probably close to the limit as far as reliability is concerned. i wouldn't have to worry about that anymore, and i could (and probably will) hang a pro charger or some kinda hair dryer on it without a second thought. or spray it. and knock 100 pounds off the nose. my stock block is the only thing i worry about when wringing it's neck, and i'm gonna do something about it. the thought of spending thousands of dollars to add weight to the nose of the car (aftermarket iron block) is unappealing to me. may as well spend a little more and add lightness at the same time...
Well thats the thing... if you are at the limits of the block AND you plan on replacing it then yes I would go alum VS a iron one
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Re: aluminum block on the street?
[Re: maximum entropy]
#1543829
12/05/13 02:57 PM
12/05/13 02:57 PM
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,675 Mt. Eden Ky.
Hemi Allstate
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Mt. Eden Ky.
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I went with the aluminum and it is about 150 lbs lighter than the iron block . (137 lbs. advertised) Like you said, it was a dream of mine to have/build this engine. I have not been on long distance drives with it yet, just around town a bit, and I am very happy with the results. I had an issue with the head gaskets, (World Block takes different ones) and after that was fixed, it has been all good. I would do it again. Mark
1996 Ram 1500 Sport 1968 road runner 1952 Sears Allstate licensed, pump gas, Hemi 5.98 @ 115.73 1.33 60 ft. The best is yet to come. Painless Performance / Street RODDER magazine Top 100 for 2019
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Re: aluminum block on the street?
[Re: Moneypit6]
#1543830
12/05/13 03:08 PM
12/05/13 03:08 PM
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,028 Trumbull,CT.
jim sciortino
top fuel
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top fuel
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Trumbull,CT.
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Quote:
Do you know what the newest KB blocks are? Wet or dry? I've been trying to justify doing this myself for the weight savings. It's a pretty expensive 60 lb or so savings!
Mine weighed about 140#. An iron block capable of 4.500 probably weighs 300#.
Even a stock piece of crap 440 block weighs 100+ more than a KB and isn't a 3rd the strength, or repairable.
Put a price on driving over your crankshaft at 160+mph.
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Re: aluminum block on the street?
[Re: fullmetaljacket]
#1543832
12/05/13 03:18 PM
12/05/13 03:18 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,402 Marion, South Carolina [><]
an8sec70cuda
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,402
Marion, South Carolina [><]
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I went w/ the aluminum block mainly b/c a good iron block wasn't available at the time. The World blocks weren't out yet and I wasn't gonna take a chance on a mega block (if I could find one for sale) that was gonna need a bunch of machine work to be useable. Also, I'd rather have 5 grand in a block that's repairable instead of having 4 grand or more in an iron block that becomes a boat anchor if you grenade it.
I have a cast iron 4.5" bore World Hemi block on my engine stand right now...talk about a HUGE weight difference b/t it and my KB block!!! That bare World iron block feels as heavy as a complete 440 shortblock.
CHIP '70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60 '69 road runner, 440-6, 18 spline 4 speed, Dana 60 '71 Demon, 340, low gear 904, 8.75 '73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75 '90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt '06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax
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Re: aluminum block on the street?
[Re: an8sec70cuda]
#1543835
12/05/13 04:39 PM
12/05/13 04:39 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 6,849
fullmetaljacket
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so 6-70. I presume you are running a dry sleeve aluminum Hemi block? I only ask, because it seems that Keith Black does not produce dry sleeve aluminum 440 blocks with all the features of their new Hemi block. I love the double cross bolted features and extra thick sleeves. When time and budget allows, I would much rather build an aluminum Wedge before a Hemi. It's just that my car now is set up for a Wedge exclusively.
Last edited by fullmetaljacket; 12/05/13 04:46 PM.
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Re: aluminum block on the street?
[Re: fullmetaljacket]
#1543836
12/05/13 04:52 PM
12/05/13 04:52 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,402 Marion, South Carolina [><]
an8sec70cuda
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,402
Marion, South Carolina [><]
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Yes, it has dry sleeves. I believe all of their blocks are dry sleeve now.
CHIP '70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60 '69 road runner, 440-6, 18 spline 4 speed, Dana 60 '71 Demon, 340, low gear 904, 8.75 '73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75 '90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt '06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax
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Re: aluminum block on the street?
[Re: an8sec70cuda]
#1543838
12/05/13 05:26 PM
12/05/13 05:26 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 6,849
fullmetaljacket
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Roger that. Thank you. I just got a quick response answer from Ken at KB indicating that yes, their new blocks both Hemi/440 are indeed dry sleeve. The only drawback in my configuration is that all the blocks are machined for an external oil pick up and my stock location oil pick up is already stretched to its limits because of its placement and how the engine nestles in the cradle. I don't want to be the hand that rocks the cradle at this point in time. Anyway, good to know before hand. 60-100 pounds shaved off is juicy fruit to nibble on though.
Last edited by fullmetaljacket; 12/05/13 05:28 PM.
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