aluminum block on the street?

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Because it allows one to take weight off the front end, most Mopar big block musclecars were pretty front-heavy, and use a bigger engine.

Think of it this way: You only pay for the aluminum block once, but you reap the benefits every time you drive it.

R.

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I understand the weight issue but MOST street car guys
dont care that much... and most dont string out the
revs to worry about busting the engine... hell, most
are very happy with a stroker kit

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If it were me and I was starting anew, I'd build an aluminum block for the weight savings right where it counts most. Less power to push a lightweight down stream is a more reliable package I believe.
Though iron holds the heat better and a certain amount of heat is HP.
Sometimes the cost of something even if it is pricey might out weigh the cost of headaches and sweaty stressful labor down the road and track.
P-body, correct me if I'm wrong, but I suspect that your car there does not need much HP to get steaming because of its overall weight. Smart package.
Some cars just don't have the lean to be mean, so your car is performing the opposite of a heavy engine package.

I'm a street car guy and maybe a fanatic at this issue, but if I were in the position where Aluminum blocks were as reliable as they seem nowadays, I'd save my pennies and go Alcoa in a NY minute.

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Your correct... both of my cars are on the light side..
the P-Body is much lighter than than my Rampage but
neither of them need big HP to be quick... but both
of them have iron blocks.. I sold my alum SB block
some years back... but I have made the chassis light
to help cover the weight issue... yes if you were
starting from scratch then it might help but I need
the front weight in the race car because of the weight
bias in it now... its 48/52 with me in it

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thanks for all the input, guys. i would do it for all the above reasons- my stock block is probably close to the limit as far as reliability is concerned. i wouldn't have to worry about that anymore, and i could (and probably will) hang a pro charger or some kinda hair dryer on it without a second thought. or spray it. and knock 100 pounds off the nose. my stock block is the only thing i worry about when wringing it's neck, and i'm gonna do something about it. the thought of spending thousands of dollars to add weight to the nose of the car (aftermarket iron block) is unappealing to me. may as well spend a little more and add lightness at the same time...

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Well thats the thing... if you are at the limits of
the block AND you plan on replacing it then yes I
would go alum VS a iron one

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Do you know what the newest KB blocks are? Wet or dry? I've been trying to justify doing this myself for the weight savings. It's a pretty expensive 60 lb or so savings!

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so what are the advantages/disadvantages to aluminum blocks other than weight. and the cool factor?

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Especially if you are a true 9 second street car. Good combo you have there to be in the single digits and cruise the streets.

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My pump gas 9 second(high 9s at the track, corked up on pump gas, motor only) 3450 Lb Duster had a old cast iron 400 block with four ductile iron sleeves in it and the deck brazed up, it always leaked down good and made plenty of power I have always heard, and shared, that if your running a N/A motor and want the best performance and have a choice, like in NHRA Pro Stock, use a Compact Graphite Iron block, if those are not availble ( especially for all us poor Mopar racers and engine builders) use a plain old cast grey iron block