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You can "slick-shift" prep the trans by removing the brass syncro rings and grinding every 2nd tooth off the syncro hub, as well as every 2nd tooth off the inside of the syncro slider. There were some magazine articles back in the 70s detailing how to do it. The car would become marginally streetable, you have to double-clutch when shifting to keep from "grinding" the gears. I used to race 4-speeds, and did a couple transmissions myself, it really did make them shift quicker/easier.

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You can "slick-shift" prep the trans by removing the brass syncro rings and grinding every 2nd tooth off the syncro hub, as well as every 2nd tooth off the inside of the syncro slider. There were some magazine articles back in the 70s detailing how to do it. The car would become marginally streetable, you have to double-clutch when shifting to keep from "grinding" the gears. I used to race 4-speeds, and did a couple transmissions myself, it really did make them shift quicker/easier.

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You dont have to remove the sync stop rings, take away every other tooth on them too, that way you dont have to double clutch.
Steel shiftforks should be used.
As long as you dont turn high rpms thats all that is needed.

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There is a 307 bearing that has more balls than a standard bearing. I am curious on this topic since I have to build a tranny for my Charger...Tim

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You can "slick-shift" prep the trans by removing the brass syncro rings and grinding every 2nd tooth off the syncro hub, as well as every 2nd tooth off the inside of the syncro slider. There were some magazine articles back in the 70s detailing how to do it. The car would become marginally streetable, you have to double-clutch when shifting to keep from "grinding" the gears. I used to race 4-speeds, and did a couple transmissions myself, it really did make them shift quicker/easier.

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You dont have to remove the sync stop rings, take away every other tooth on them too, that way you dont have to double clutch.
Steel shiftforks should be used.
As long as you dont turn high rpms thats all that is needed.

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I have heard the recommendation of steel forks before...im assuming that they are more bend resistant than the bronze ones?

I have also heard of the different slick shift methods, although this is a street box so a full on slick shift box would definitely not work out. I have thought about the halfway, keeping the synchro rings in. Going to be shifting this thing at around 6600-6700rpms this year, so we'll just have to see how much the box likes (or hates ) going into gear that high. Whatever I do, it needs to be able to hold up to street miles and not wear out super quickly

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You can "slick-shift" prep the trans by removing the brass syncro rings and grinding every 2nd tooth off the syncro hub, as well as every 2nd tooth off the inside of the syncro slider. There were some magazine articles back in the 70s detailing how to do it. The car would become marginally streetable, you have to double-clutch when shifting to keep from "grinding" the gears. I used to race 4-speeds, and did a couple transmissions myself, it really did make them shift quicker/easier.

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You dont have to remove the sync stop rings, take away every other tooth on them too, that way you dont have to double clutch.
Steel shiftforks should be used.
As long as you dont turn high rpms thats all that is needed.

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I'm sure you have heard it....... but the key is in the clutch.....

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Do nothing.

I shift a STOCK 833 to low 11's on slicks...and drive it a ton on the street. I power shift it at around 6,200rpm.

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Im hoping my experience will be similar to yours...and that my increased shift rpms won't change that too much

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Let me know if you can't find a fork I've got a few laying around. PM if you need.

If I get a chance I'll take a pic of the hd cover tomorrow.

Andre

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Hey Andre,

if you could post a pic of that cover it would be great! What is the benefit of the steel forks? less prone to bending/breaking? Both of my transmissions are currently brass forks like in the first picture above

thanks!

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My experience withe the brass fork is that the shaft will sheer off of the fork at the most inopportune time.

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Been there, done that Get the steel forks and cut the nubs off and use them in the early cover OP, what fluids are you suing in your boxes? If not straight ATF try that

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Do nothing.

I shift a STOCK 833 to low 11's on slicks...and drive it a ton on the street. I power shift it at around 6,200rpm.

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Here's what you want to do ...

use the steel forks - the brass one's have a tendency to snap off at the shaft. Since the steel forks only came on the slider style side covers they are made with an additional smaller shaft on the ends - you just cut those off.

on the detents you want to round off the sharp edge off on both sides of the neutral position and do the same on the leading edge on the 1, 2, 3 and 4. This is so the detent ball will slide more easily when you shift. DO NOT grind the edge where the ball stops!

The thing will shift so smooth you won't believe it.

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Stanton, Do you have any pictures of this mod, and where/what to cut grind? Im thinking of doing some mods to mine.

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Stanton, Do you have any pictures of this mod, and where/what to cut grind? Im thinking of doing some mods to mine.

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Unfortunately no pics but here's a "rough" sketch.

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Here are a couple pics of the side cover stuff. You'll notice one fork, 3/4, says liberty on it. Look at it in the comparison as it is slightly different, used that with the faceplate setup stuff.

Hope these help.
Two stock ones, as you can see the affore mentioned nub has already been shortened on the one.




The knock in seal, they are green scotseals. You just have to be careful that the shaft doesnt tear the lip as you push them through.

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I just sopke with Paul at liberty, and I have to say he is one of the most helpfull guys I have ever talked to. He even sent me a cell phone picture of a tool he made to push the reverse shaft out of the case to replace that pesky O ring.

80 bucks is all he charges to do that HD kit to the side cover, and he gave me a few other "pointer"

Great guy!!

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Did he say how long it would take to send the cover and get it back? I've always been kinda leary about them since I know they say a certain time but you don't see your stuff back for months.

And what other "pointers" did he give you...care to share?

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My experience withe the brass fork is that the shaft will sheer off of the fork at the most inopportune time.

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Been there, done that Get the steel forks and cut the nubs off and use them in the early cover OP, what fluids are you suing in your boxes? If not straight ATF try that

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I actually planned on using some form of gear oil this year. I used Castrol Type F ATF. I thought that I could benefit though from the extra thickness of some 75W90 weight stuff for lubrication. I figure once its warm it should perform just like the ATF

Unless there is an ATF brand that works really well? I tried synchromesh last year and my trans grinded on every shift with it, even at lower speeds.

This thread really blew up! I like it! Hopefully there are some more tricks that come out of the woodwork

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I REALLY don't think ATF is a good lube for any 833 being used for anything but mild street use
If you need something lighter for cold weather use just get some straight 30 wt. motor oil and mix it 50-50 with 75-90 gear oil.
Gus

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The Liberty side cover mod and steel forks are a cheap and worth while modification that really doesn't affect anything else
I really think you should faceplate third and fourth gear and leave first and second alone for a street box
A good shifter and linkage is the key to clean shifts,for an H-pattern shifter get the Hurst Super Shifter III, for a V-gate go for the Long shifter and fab up your own linkage with heim joints and steel tube shift rods
Gus

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This thread really blew up! I like it! Hopefully there are some more tricks that come out of the woodwork

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The Liberty side cover mod and steel forks are a cheap and worth while modification that really doesn't affect anything else
I really think you should faceplate third and fourth gear and leave first and second alone for a street box
A good shifter and linkage is the key to clean shifts,for an H-pattern shifter get the Hurst Super Shifter III, for a V-gate go for the Long shifter and fab up your own linkage with heim joints and steel tube shift rods
Gus

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I have Gus's old long shifter and modified cover for sale............

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hey guys,

hopefully this hasn't been covered here before and isn't a naive question. I finally picked up a backup 23 spline box for my car, and right now both are bone stock but in great shape. I beat on my last box last year to the times in my sig with no real issues except sometimes a grinding on the 2-3 shift ( i think clutch adjustment and my technique were to blame there)

This year im planning to run high/mid 11's, and faster on spray. Besides clutch stuff, what tricks are out there to help the transmission live longer, shift better, etc.? I know there is only so much that can be done, and I know its only a 23 spline, but does anyone who has raced or still races these things have any tips or suggestions?

I still street drive mine so all out face plating/pro shifting is out of the picture until I am having trouble at higher rpms. Just looking for ways to get extra life or performance out of it if I can since they are both apart right now and getting back together for the beginning of my season

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hey guys,

hopefully this hasn't been covered here before and isn't a naive question. I finally picked up a backup 23 spline box for my car, and right now both are bone stock but in great shape. I beat on my last box last year to the times in my sig with no real issues except sometimes a grinding on the 2-3 shift ( i think clutch adjustment and my technique were to blame there)

This year im planning to run high/mid 11's, and faster on spray. Besides clutch stuff, what tricks are out there to help the transmission live longer, shift better, etc.? I know there is only so much that can be done, and I know its only a 23 spline, but does anyone who has raced or still races these things have any tips or suggestions?

I still street drive mine so all out face plating/pro shifting is out of the picture until I am having trouble at higher rpms. Just looking for ways to get extra life or performance out of it if I can since they are both apart right now and getting back together for the beginning of my season

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Did you check the air gap between the flywheel and the disc with the clutch pedal pushed to the floor? If you don't have enough gap then it will be tough power shift. Gap is slightly different for different pressure plate styles but .050" is a good number to shoot for. Some A-body pedals like the ones used in 340/360 cars have a diffent pedal with a longer lever that move the bellcrank slightly more for more air gap so using a 318 or /6 combined with high pressure plate loads may deflect the linkage just enough to not allow enough release for a good power shift. Also way too much air gap will cause problems too. Bottom line of all this mumbo jumbo is check the air gap and correct it if needed.

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I accually changed my ratio off a tech article in mopar muscle. I also made all the z bar linkage with tubes and heim joints, thats been covered on here before. As for the other pointers, it was basic tear down, inspection, and tech stuff like that. He told me about what they accually do to the side covers, and that kind of thing. Just give him a call, he is a very cool giy to shoot the breeze with.

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Does going with the newer style syncro's provide any added benefit?

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Does going with the newer style syncro's provide any added benefit?

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The new style blocker rings are less likely to crack since there is no sharp corner for a crack to start like the old style has and the syncro struts in the new style synchros hold up better.

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I tore down an A-body tranny that I had laying around, syncro's looked good so I am going to use them. Are all the 1st gears the same? The steel shift forks were pretty worn but the brass ones I have looked like new. One slider had some chipped teeth so I swapped it with one with just a little wear. Now I just need to get a B-body non trunion main shaft. Tim

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I just sent Jamie a perfect B/E-body mainshaft in trade for some other parts so I know he has at least one
Gus

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I was hoping Wayne or Jamie would provide some input on this, I am going to convert an A-body overdrive into a B-body, I only need a few hundred in parts and then I will use it as my cruising tranny until I can afford Jamie's overdive or an 18 spline. I sure hope it will hold up behind a 572 hemi in a B-body....Tim

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Sure as long you plug the main jets and only ise the idle system

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I tore down an A-body tranny that I had laying around, syncro's looked good so I am going to use them. Are all the 1st gears the same? The steel shift forks were pretty worn but the brass ones I have looked like new. One slider had some chipped teeth so I swapped it with one with just a little wear. Now I just need to get a B-body non trunion main shaft. Tim

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I just sent Jamie a perfect B/E-body mainshaft in trade for some other parts so I know he has at least one
Gus

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Gus, what weight/type gear lube do you recommend?

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did the detent mod that stanton posted last night to two different covers. Did one at a time to compare, and yes, there is a difference even just moving the detents by hand

In the process I was also able to find that pin between the two detent balls in my sidecover was missing this entire time I was running the transmission good thing I finally got this side cover apart

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How did you bevel the edges? File or grinder? Tim

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did the detent mod that stanton posted last night to two different covers. Did one at a time to compare, and yes, there is a difference even just moving the detents by hand

In the process I was also able to find that pin between the two detent balls in my sidecover was missing this entire time I was running the transmission good thing I finally got this side cover apart

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I have had enough of these trannys apart to know what to use and what not to use.I have seen cluster pins and gears galled and flaked from ATF but gear oil filled transmissions always look better inside
Gus

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Ok, I found a NP833 from a chevy, its a low mileage one that was behind a 5.7 diesel. He wants 200.00, should I get it and rob it for syncro's and parts? Tim

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