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For all you guys using Sillycone on your rear main seals what do you think that will actually accomplish
Do Not use any sealers on the rear seal itself unless you want to create potential issues

You have the rear main seal offset in the cap WAY TOO MUCH another potential issue.

For the situation at hand with the motor in the car I recommend offsetting the seal 1/8" (.125") with assembly lube on the back side so it will rotate into position with the other half when the main cap is torqued. Use plenty of assembly lube on the seal lip AND crankshaft as it actually takes a long time for oil to reach that area upon initial start up.

The only reason for offsetting a seal is to align the main cap groove with the groove in the block. The seals must mate perfectly square to each other or there WILL be a leak. Main cap to block alignment should always be checked and corrected before any block work is done to the mains, then a referance mark should be placed on the block and cap for proper alingment for assembly. This will eliminate the need to offset the seal.

Just speaking from over 20 years of specializing in automotive oil seals so take it FWIW




I can only check the seals to see if they mate. That doesn't mean they will mate when they are installed. Main cap to block allignment I did not check. Motor was built 3 years ago.
So if both of these issues are off and I do not use sillycone, chances are I will have a leak. But if I use sillycone (silicone) in both thes places, are you saying there is more potential for a leak ? By the way "The Right Stuff" is the wrong price. $20 for a 4 oz tube.




I dont personally use the right stuff, cause its priced like gold. I do however like the stuff from Ford for the 7.3 powerjoke. Its grey and comes in a short caulk tube for 7.80 ish. Dosnt have a very long shelf life if you cut too but a hole in the tip, so I only cut 1/16" hole in the tip. Its kinda thick, but seals like yamabond. VERY good sealant.

Kasey