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My question still stands what is the niche for the XR1? In my experience the R3 will handle anything you want to throw at it. Why not do them in aluminum? Didn't Ernie Elliott make a run of aluminum blocks? Does anyone know if they exist? Deck height, etc.


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Someone educate me on the benefits of the XR1 Ritter block over an R3. I understand the market for the XR2 to get a taller deck, larger cube P7 headed combo but I just don't see the need in the XR1. IMO if Kent would have had the XR1 done in aluminum he'd sell quite a few. I for one would buy one or two myself.

Mike Gray



XR blocks use all 5 billet main caps, fully sealed cam tunnel, & a true priority main oil feed that is seperate from the lifter galleys. It weighs more than the R3's & has different freeze plug diameters.... little different lifter boss design.... that's about the differences. They cost about $600 more than an R3 (without bushings) the one SST showed is an upgraded bushed block done by Brian Tillburg here in PA who is doing the bushings for Kent, which costs extra. The additional cost over n R3 is basically to offset the Billet main caps & ARP studs they come with.





The niche is the billet caps, the sealed cam tunnel & the priority oil feed. Those are the only benefits over an off shelf R3.

The Ernie Elliot blocks most certainly do exist I have seen them in person. It's an aluminum copy of an R5, they are so expensive you never see them.

What is the huge benefit of aluminum other than repair ability? I've got a Tall deck 48 Siamese here @ 182 LBS that I would not hesitate to put 1600+ through forced induction. Say they do an aluminum block XR1 @ 105 lbs. Is the 75 LB weight savings really that big of a deal? You will be giving up ring seal & IMO deck seal as well with alum block if looking @ doing non N/A motor, that would be a major concern for me.

Big Block/Hemi Alum blocks like an INDY Maxx or a KB are designed to be alum blocks rom the get go & designed to be ran as a sleeved cyl wall block (same as an Aluminum SB Mopar Sprint block). Doing a copy of an iron designed block in alum & then just sticking sleeves in it is not going to work as well IMO as a block designed from scratch as an alum block. Chrysler found that out years ago when they tried to do the Jeep grand Cherokee Aluminum blocks, all they did was pour an iron magnum block in aluminum & they did not hold up well at all in testing & never made production. There is a reason Chrysler did'nt just cast an R block in aluminum when they wanted to go 410 Sprint racing in mid 90's.

If Kent does an alum copy of an XR1 I'm sure it will be able to hold up to moderate power use (sub 900?) Above that I'd want no part of it. It's not re-enforced in proper areas to be ran as high power Aluminum block. ie it was never designed for that purpose. I'll stay with the tried & true for those power levels, like you said, you can't hurt an R3 unless rotating assy blows up inside of it & then cracks it etc.

BTW should have Donald's motor back together by the weekend. Just assembled heads & filed the rings today.