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"...all I can see is the flash of the 3rd so I'm basicly leaving off of a .500 pro tree..... "

Except the Pro field uses a .400 pro tree. So you would be cutting .100 lights! Big difference if you have never done it before.

if you read above I said my car would never cut a light on a .400 tree (actually .370 now) just that If you can't cut consistant light in say a purpose built(set up for .370 pro tree) if you can't cut a light you better give it up..... everyone has their off days but if you can't ever string together a good day at least one time a month your wasting your money and you'd be better off test and tuning!!!!



.....you cut a light on a .400 tree with a 7 second 1/8th mile car and your just guessing....



Agreed, Case in point would be in my car over the past weekend I could go red on .400 tree if I rolled shallow deep. -.017, rolled .02 in the box and was .017, .003, .001 on next three passes. This is on a car that will 60' 1.28-1.30 with an approximate rollout of .235 on a shallow stage. My average light on .400 while shallow staging is .032. The biggest difference as stated is the fact you never know where you truly are in beams when staging with clutch and it is very difficult to find ways to slow the launch on these cars that will make them consistent, hence the large variance in reactions. I will tell stripe hog that there is no way you would go better than .050 with a deep stage on .400 tree if your front tire diameter is anything larger than 26" and your car runs in the 7's in 1/8th mile. FWIW the Super Gas class should be run on a .500 tree as a true 9.90 car would have a hard time hitting .400 lights, throw in the Al's out there who are running low to mid 8 second rides in super gas or hot rod and that is what hs neccesitated the .370 and .400 tree and leaves outt hose who have a car that truly runs 9.90's from being competitive on that quick tree. IMO